Sapporo is the relaxed, food-obsessed capital of Hokkaido, Japan’s fifth-largest city by population, yet one of its youngest, having only been formally established in the late 1800s. That late start matters. Unlike most Japanese cities that evolved organically, Sapporo was planned on a grid, inspired in part by American frontier towns. The result is a city that feels unusually spacious, logical and breathable by Japanese standards, even when it’s buried under snow.
And buried it often is. Sapporo averages close to five metres of snowfall each winter, more than almost any major city on Earth. Instead of fighting it, the city engineered around it with underground pedestrian corridors stretching for more than two kilometres beneath the CBD, linking stations, shops and office buildings so locals can comfortably commute. The annual Sapporo Snow Festival pulls in more than two million visitors over a single week, filling Odori Park with towering ice sculptures.
Then there is the food. Sapporo consistently ranks near the top of Japan’s domestic travel wish lists, largely because people eat extremely well here. Miso ramen, butter corn, soup curry, jingisukan lamb barbecue and seafood pulled from some of the coldest waters in the Pacific are everyday meals, taken seriously.
Sapporo also drinks more beer per capita than anywhere else in the country, a legacy of being home to the country’s Japan's first commercial brewery. Even now beer halls here feel civic, places for long lunches and longer conversations.
Summers are mild, rarely climbing into the sticky discomfort common further south, and winters are crisp rather than punishing. It is Japan with space to think, room to walk, and seasons that assert themselves loudly. Sapporo rewards travellers who slow down, eat well, and let the city reveal itself between planned highlights - and choosing the right hotels in Sapporo makes all the difference.