Guide to Diwali in India for First-Time Visitors

Every autumn, millions of clay oil lamps line rooftops, river steps, and windowsills across India as the country marks Diwali, the five-day festival that celebrates the triumph of light over darkness. The name itself comes from the Sanskrit word Deepavali, meaning "a row (avali) of lights (deep)."

For travellers, experiencing Diwali in India is a chance to see the country at its most festive, with night markets filling the streets, rangoli patterns decorating every doorway, and entire cities lit up after dark. This guide covers the best cities to visit, what each day of the festival involves, and the practical details you need to plan your trip.

• What: India's biggest annual festival, known as the Festival of Lights
• When: October or November, depending on the Hindu lunar calendar. The main night falls on the new moon (Amavasya) of the month of Kartik.
• Duration: Five days, from Dhanteras (celebration of wealth and health) to Bhai Dooj (celebration of the sibling bond).
• Best cities: Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi, Mumbai, and Goa are the most popular with international visitors.
• Who it's for: All travellers. Diwali is a public celebration, and visitors are welcomed warmly.
• Good to know: Accommodation books out fast. Confirm flights and hotels at least three months ahead.

Diwali, also called Deepavali, is rooted in Hindu tradition. The most widely known story connects the festival to the return of Lord Rama to his kingdom of Ayodhya after 14 years of exile.

According to the tale, people lit rows of oil lamps to guide him home, and the tradition has continued ever since. The festival is also closely tied to the worship of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, who is believed to visit homes that are clean, bright, and welcoming.

Because Diwali follows the Hindu lunar calendar, the dates shift each year. The main night of Lakshmi Puja falls on:

• 8 November in 2026
• 29 October in 2027
• 17 October in 2028
• 5 November in 2029

The full five-day festival typically runs from two days before the main night to two days after.

• Day 1: Dhanteras. A day dedicated to wealth and health. Families clean their homes, light their first lamps, and buy gold or new utensils as a symbol of good fortune.
• Day 2: Naraka Chaturdashi (Choti Diwali). Marks the victory of Lord Krishna over the demon Narakasura. In Goa, locals burn towering paper effigies of the demon in the streets.
• Day 3: Lakshmi Puja. The main event. Homes, temples, and public spaces are fully illuminated with diyas (small cup-shaped oil lamps made of baked clay) and fairy lights. Families gather for prayers, feasts, and fireworks.
• Day 4: Govardhan Puja. Honours Lord Krishna's protection of his community and is often marked with large communal meals shared between neighbours and extended family.
• Day 5: Bhai Dooj. A day celebrating the bond between siblings. Sisters apply a tilak (vermilion mark) to their brothers' foreheads, and families exchange sweets and gifts.

Not every city celebrates Diwali in the same way. These five destinations in India each offer something different for visitors.

Best for: Markets, street food, and rooftop views of the light displays.

Jaipur's pink sandstone buildings and fort backdrops make it one of the most photographed Diwali destinations in India. The bazaars of Johari Bazaar, Bapu Bazaar, and MI Road are decorated with lights weeks in advance as shopkeepers compete to create the most impressive displays.

Head to Nahargarh Fort after sunset for a wide view of the city lit up below. Henna painting stalls and sweet shops fill the Old City especially during Diwali season. If you are looking for a base in Rajasthan, Novotel Jaipur Convention Centre is on Tonk Road, a 15-minute drive from the Old City bazaars.

Travel tip: The bazaars get extremely crowded during the festival, so keep your belongings close and avoid flashing expensive devices, particularly in Johari Bazaar and Bapu Bazaar.

Best for: Cultural events, melas, and a full-scale city Diwali.

As the national capital, Delhi goes all out for Diwali. The Diwali Mela at Dilli Haat brings together handicrafts, food stalls, and cultural performances from across the country. Chandni Chowk in Old Delhi is the place for traditional sweets, decorations, and the thick of the festive crowd.

India Gate and Connaught Place are illuminated for the occasion. Many neighbourhoods host their own fireworks displays after dark.

ibis New Delhi Aerocity is minutes from the international airport, making it a convenient first stop before heading to Chandni Chowk and Dilli Haat.

Fair warning: Delhi's air quality gets noticeably worse during Diwali, due to firecrackers and crop burning across Punjab and Haryana. If you have respiratory issues, Jaipur and Goa are much cleaner cities to visit at this time of year. An N95 mask is worth packing either way.

Chandni Chowk gets packed during the festival too, so keep your bag zipped and leave your passport back at the hotel.

Best for: Spiritual atmosphere, the Ganga Aarti, and Dev Deepawali.

Varanasi is where Diwali feels closest to its spiritual roots. The ghats (broad stone steps leading to the river) along the Ganges are lined with thousands of oil lamps. The evening Ganga Aarti ceremony, a devotional ritual where priests circle lit lamps to the sound of chanting and drums, draws crowds of thousands.

If your dates allow it, plan to stay an extra two weeks for Dev Deepawali, a separate festival held 15 days after Diwali on the full moon of Kartik. On that night, all 88 ghats are illuminated with over a million diyas, and the reflections on the river create a scene that draws visitors from around the world.

Best for: Combining Diwali with city sightseeing and food.

Mumbai's Diwali celebration is loud, fast, and full of colour. Crawford Market and the lanes around Mohammed Ali Road fill with shoppers buying mithai (sweets), dried fruits, and decorations. Marine Drive, the city's famous waterfront promenade, becomes a gathering point on the main night, with families lighting sparklers along the sea wall. For travellers who want to combine festival energy with city sightseeing, Mumbai is a practical choice.

Travel tip: Juhu Beach is one of Mumbai's biggest Diwali gathering spots for fireworks and street food. Novotel Mumbai Juhu Beach puts you right on the doorstep and gives you an easy retreat after a long night of celebrations.

Best for: A relaxed Diwali with beach time and local traditions.

Goa celebrates Diwali with its own twist. The burning of Narakasura effigies on the second night is a tradition unique to the state, with neighbourhoods in Panjim, Margao, and Vasco building towering figures and setting them alight in the early hours. The atmosphere is more relaxed than in the northern cities, and you can combine the festival with time on the coast. For ideas on where to swim, this guide to Goa's best beaches covers both the north and south.

Travel tip: If you want to be in the middle of the celebrations, Novotel Goa Panjim is minutes from the effigy burnings and street parades. If you'd rather retreat to somewhere quieter after a late Diwali night, Novotel Goa Resort & Spa near Candolim Beach gives you a coastal base away from the noise.

Diwali is a national holiday, and much of India takes the week off. Expect closures at government offices, some shops, and smaller businesses on the main day and the day after. Here are the practical things worth knowing before you visit India during Diwali.

• Trains and flights: Domestic routes fill up weeks before Diwali, so book early. Avoid standard-class trains during festival week, as they're often overcrowded with non-ticketed passengers. Premium services such as Rajdhani, Vande Bharat, and Duronto are more comfortable and reliable options.
• Ride-hailing apps: Uber and Ola are the easiest way to get around cities and generally more reliable than street taxis, especially during busy festival periods.

Loud patakhe (firecrackers) go off at all hours across two to three nights, often continuing past midnight and starting again early in the morning. Pack earplugs, keep a safe distance from street-level fireworks, and avoid narrow lanes between 7pm and midnight on the main night.

Street food and sweets are everywhere during Diwali. A few things to keep in mind:

• Stick to freshly cooked items and avoid anything mixed with unfiltered water or ice.
• Carry bottled water (check the seal is intact), oral rehydration salts, and basic first aid supplies.

• Remove your shoes before entering and cover your shoulders and knees. A scarf or shawl works well for this.

• Don't point your feet towards altars or religious images.

• Check photography rules before taking any pictures.

• If someone greets you with "Shubh Deepavali" (auspicious Festival of Lights), smile and return the greeting.

Diwali is a welcoming festival for all types of travellers, but each group has a few things worth planning for.

• Pre-book transfers and avoid arriving in a new city after dark. Use ride-hailing apps instead of street taxis, and share your live location with a contact back home.
• Dress modestly in loose, comfortable clothing, especially at temples. For emergencies, dial 112 or 1091 (women's helpline).

• Public displays of affection are uncommon in India and can attract unwanted attention.
• Agree on a meeting point before entering busy markets. Mobile signal can drop in dense festival crowds.

• Pack noise-cancelling headphones or earmuffs for young children. Dress children in cotton, not synthetics, which melt on contact with heat.
• Use a child carrier instead of a stroller in crowded areas like markets and temples. Two to three destinations in a week are realistic with kids during Diwali, so build in rest days between cities.