We Tasted Culinary Heritage at Hotel Maison Maastricht Centrum

We arrive at Hotel Maison Maastricht Centrum - Handwritten Collection, and share a smile and a glance as we realise there's something unique and intriguing about the place. Stepping off a central Maastricht street and up to the entrance, we walk first through a wooden door with ornate carvings and ironwork that must surely be historic. A few steps on, sleek, modern glass doors slide open to guide us into the lobby.

We'd heard that this Maastricht hotel has a prestigious past as a hospitality school, and it's clear the dedication to hospitality continues in the staff's friendly manner. We had even been contacted before arriving to choose bespoke minibar contents and other personal preferences. As we're warmly greeted in reception, it becomes delightfully apparent that our optimism and anticipation of our stay are justified.

The only distraction during a seamless check-in is our temptation to look around and admire our surroundings, like the beautiful tile artwork, and marbling in pillars that tower in the lobby. Happily, we're offered a tour to discover more about such period features and to get to know the hotel better. Naturally, we jump at the chance.

Our guide, whose enthusiasm adds to our own, begins the tour by taking us through the effortlessly sophisticated bar, named Coleys after Ada Coleman, the first female head bartender at London’s Savoy Hotel during the early 1900s. My companion and I share another glance to telepathically confirm we'll be back to learn more about Ada and the bar menu later.

As the tour continues, taking in an intriguing mix of wooden staircases, contemporary art and even a decorative cast-iron stove, we learn more about the hotel's history and the themes that define it today. Back in the 1800s, four adjoining houses became two separate hotels, known as The Eagle and The Greyhound Dog. It was during the mid-1900s that this luxurious location became a hospitality school. Charming old books throughout the current hotel are a legacy of such study.

The tour comes to an end, but we know there's much more to delve into later, like pastry and chocolate masterclasses delivered by the experts from the hotel. We also know that for as long as we're staying here, local cheeses in the on-site cheese cellar, named Roquefort, will not go untasted. 

For now, it's time to taste the seasonal welcome drink in our room (it's warming glühwein in winter and could be something crisp and bubbly in summer). We chose a room in the historical part of the property, but the modern wing has its own distinctive appeal, and it seems the newer part overlooks the older part to offer best-of-both vibes. We're looking forward to discovering it all, and the city too.

"We're lucky enough to be staying in the Executive Suite at the very top of the hotel. Along with elevated views over city rooftops, our top-floor location is delightfully evident in the sloping walls that bring the roof to its ridge. On another wall, exposed original stonework carries the tones and texture of the building's venerable history. Our elegant writing desk also has a historical aura. 

At this address where hoteliers once trained, artwork in our room pays homage to the heritage. Feeling peaceful thanks to the room's soothing colours, wood floor and soft light from stylish lamps, we brew some Nespresso coffee and settle in the living room to plan our Maastricht adventures. Local beers from our pre-selected package are tucked safely in the minibar for later. 

Staying at Hotel Maison Maastricht Centrum on the recommendation of a friend, we're blissfully aware that the beers and Nespresso won't be the only gastronomic treats to look forward to in our room. Evenings are about unwrapping white chocolate bonbons filled with prosecco, a good-night gift as part of the turndown service. Such personal touches are the hallmark of Handwritten Collection hotels, and these small details really do make a big difference. We're told these personal touches are enjoyed in all room categories."

We feel a tingle of adventure walking into Bar Coley's, maybe because Ada Coleman was such a trailblazer that the thought of trying her Hanky Panky cocktail stirs a little of her pioneering spirit. Before sampling that deep, rich cocktail, though, we decide to warm up with a crisp craft beer from the city's Stadsbrouwerij Maastricht brewery. It's one of several beers on the menu from the city or the wider Limburg region, which is renowned for its brewing traditions.

The food menu, which mainly consists of light bites to accompany drinks, reveals more of the hotel's dedication to gastronomic traditions. We choose deep-fried bitterballen, a classic Dutch snack that has accompanied beer for centuries. The perfect golden-brown snacks arrive, and as we dive in to reveal the beef ragout centre, the bartender overhears our enthusiasm and shares a little info on how hotel cheeses and cold meats come from regional producers.


As we take the first sip of Ada Coleman's cocktail, savouring the complex, aromatic flavours of gin, sweet vermouth and Fernet-Branca, the place starts to fill up. A group of colleagues filter in from the hotel's event room, which is named after Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the 19th-century author of The Physiology of Taste. With lounge music and comfortable couches, the bar has an easy, convivial vibe. Artwork depicting greyhounds, a nod to the building's history, adds to the warm décor that helps us feel at home.

It's fitting that the address of a former hotel school should still be a home for culinary celebration (after all, good food and drink are so often at the heart of hospitality). Along with pastry and chocolate masterclasses in a dedicated atelier near the hotel patisserie, there are opportunities for cheese and wine tasting. The cheese cellar, where the aroma of aged cheese mixes with the distinct scent of historic stonework, does not disappoint. Local ingredients really are local, with fish from the nearby river and fruit from regional forests on the menu.

Naturally, then, our expectations for breakfast for the next morning are higher than the Romanesque towers of Maastricht's Saint Servatius Basilica. We're glad to discover that mornings are indeed a treat, with breakfast having the deliberate refinement of a British afternoon tea, inspired by Anna Maria Russell, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, who first thought up the very concept. Crêpes inspired by 13th-century Brittany add to historic themes, while in-house pastries and locally sourced bites are as fresh as the new day.

Our friend who stayed here before us mentioned that even corporate events held within the hotel benefit from culinary dedication, with the catering focused on nutritious fuel that boosts energy and improves focus. Cucumber, ginger and goat's cheese are reportedly among the elements that elevate coffee breaks, along with the coffee itself, which comes from the Maastricht area. Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin would surely have approved.

On our first full day, we set out to explore this richly historic city in the southeastern Netherlands. With the Belgian and German borders nearby, an international day trip is tempting later during our stay, but before that, there are gems to discover as soon as we leave the hotel lobby. A few steps along a leafy residential street, we begin to discover the diversity of Maastricht's restaurants, from vegetarian to Hawaiian. There are plenty of cosy cafés, too.

Minutes later, we reach Vrijthof, the main central square. Towers and spires define the historical landmarks around the plaza, including the iconic red tower of Sint-Janskerk (Saint John's Church). The square provides the setting for Andre Rieu's summer concerts, and the Dutch violinist and conductor gives magical performances here around Christmas, too. The city's cultural life is also defined by the European Fine Art Fair (TEFAF) in spring, with activities and exhibitions showcasing art, design and antiques.

Blue skies inspire us to explore further on foot, and we cross the Meuse River via the oldest bridge in the Netherlands, Sint Servaasbrug, whose famous stone arches date back to the 13th century. We're headed to the Bonnefanten Museum, set in a striking building with a rocket-shaped zinc dome. The extensive collection of historic and contemporary art captivates us longer than we planned, and our thoughts turn to a golden-hour tipple at one of the terrace cafés lining Vrijthof. As we arrive back near the square, we dip into Boekhandel Dominicanen, a stunning bookstore housed in a centuries-old church. A book on Maastricht architecture begins to shape our plans for the next day.

• Foodies seeking gastronomy that represents the region, plus hands-on culinary experiences
• History enthusiasts looking to stay in a storied hotel with charming period features
• Couples, families and solo travellers exploring city sights from a convenient central hub
• Corporate guests organising events in a sophisticated meeting room with luxe catering
• Culture lovers intrigued by Maastricht's art museums, concerts and festivals

1. The fine detail on period features, like the contours of the cast-iron stove and exquisite tilework.
2. The deep, dark hues of Ada Coleman's cocktail when it's first served.
3. The venerable towers and spires of Vrijthof square in morning or evening light.
4. The irresistible display of cheeses in the Roquefort cellar.
5. Fresh chocolate lovingly crafted in the atelier at Hotel Maison Maastricht Centrum - Handwritten Collection.

Address: Boschstraat 76, 6211 AX Maastricht