Gnome Hunting in Wrocław? Here Are 9 Fascinating Facts

Wrocław’s gnomes are miniature brass symbols of the city. They first started appearing on the streets in 2001, and since then, their numbers have been determinedly multiplying. Today they are one of the city’s major tourist attractions – alongside its gorgeous churches, fairytale squares and the exquisite Panorama Racławice – adding a little humour and fun to the picturesque cobbled streets. See how many you can spot on your Wrocław visit.

Straddling ornate lamp posts, posing on the Witches’ Bridge or hanging out on street corners, the Wrocław gnomes – krasnale to the Poles – are a diverse and whimsical kaleidoscope of characters scattered throughout the city. Come with us as we unpack everything you need to know about them.

There’s a swirl of theories about the original appearance of the Wrocław gnomes (or dwarfs). Here are our three favourites.

• Dwarfs arrived on Wrocław soil in the Middle Ages, when it was called Breslau and still a village. They tilled the land, helped with harvest, nursed sick kids and cleaned houses. Historians and journalists can’t agree on why they came to the city in the first place, although most think they generally showed up when times were hard. To this day, most Wrocław locals firmly believe that ”wherever gnomes live, peace, orderliness and prosperity reign”, so they are delighted to see their city inundated with around 700 midget mischief-makers and potential do-gooders.
• In another version of events, a goblin called Chochlik Odrzanski was the first mythical beast to arrive in Wroclaw on a small raft down the River Odra, playing petty tricks on the residents. The city authorities turned to the dwarfs for help. Led by the kind-hearted Życzliwek, they kidnapped wicked Chochlik and drove him out of town. But who knows when he will return? Luckily the dwarfs have stayed around to keep everybody safe.

• Wherever the truth lies, the gnomes became the symbol of Wrocław. They now inhabit the Underground World, a mysterious place never visited by humans, heavily guarded and apparently entered through a mouse hole… but no-one is sure where it is. All you need to know is that in periods of hardship, they will be there to help!

Yes, they are. With their reputation for being on hand in times of trouble, the gnomes reappeared in Wrocław when Poland was under communist control. The regional capital city was a hub of anti-communist feeling and in the 1980s was the home of Orange Alternative, an underground group who used gnomes as their symbol of peaceful protest against the regime. When anti-government slogans in the streets were covered over by the authorities, Orange Alternative activists retaliated by painting over that handiwork with grinning dwarfs wearing pointy hats and carrying flowers in their hands. The movement had its moment of glory on 1 June 1988, when thousands of protestors strode through Wrocław wearing orange cone-shaped hats and chanting ”freedom for the dwarfs!”. Along with the Solidarity movement in Gdansk, it marked the start of the unravelling of communism in Poland.

Thus the humble dwarf became an enduring symbol of Orange Alternative, and in 2001 the first official bronze gnome – the much-adored Papa Dwarf – appeared on Ulica Świdnicka in commemoration of the anti-communist movement. Then five more arrived in 2005, designed by Wrocław sculptor Tomasz Moczek, and today, hundreds are found across the city.

Rumour has it that there are currently around 700 gnomes sneaking around the city. Their number is constantly being added to, as enthusiastic (and superstitious) Wrocław companies and individuals commission more from local artists.

Each gnome has its own unique personality, but they are largely cheeky and friendly, with quirky characters that resonate with the resilient spirit of Wrocław. Each statue is different and has a name and story to tell – some are drinking in the street, others munching on pizza slices. You’ll spot medal-wearing military veterans, bankers, posties, learned professors and a whole orchestra alongside suffragettes and firefighters. Every year, new ones arrive to take up their preferred spot on Wrocław streets.

Now happily retired from politics, Papa Dwarf watches over people on Ulica Świdnicka. If you arrive in Wrocław by bus, you’ll be greeted by the Traveller Gnome outside the bus station. Next to the Hansel and Gretel Houses in the Old Town, WroClovek waits, arms outstretched for a hug from unsuspecting passers-by – he has been known to wink at strangers! Another local landmark is Firefighter Pożarki on Świętego Mikołaja; he holds a hose in his hand in honour of the city’s firefighters, and his brass helmet is repeatedly rubbed for good luck. The Gnome with the Padlock stands on the Lover’s Bridge (Most Tumski): for a stay with a story as unique as the gnomes themselves, book into The Bridge Wroclaw - MGallery, just a five-minute stroll away.

There is an official map showing where the gnomes live in the city, and it’s constantly being added to; you can pick one up in the dwarf/visitor information office at Rynek 14. Otherwise, join one of the many guided walking tours available; take your pick of two-hour strolls through the Old Town or join the free tour provided by the tourist office, which introduces the sights of Communist-era Wrocław as seen through the humour of the 1980s dwarf movement. There are also apps with up-to-date lists of the mini-icons, as well as sites where you can create bespoke and interactive gnome-sightseeing maps. Planning to do lots of walking on your gnome hunt? Stay in the centre of the Old Town at the family-friendly Hotel Mercure Wroclaw Centrum.

A concept rather than a physical sculpture, the Invisible Gnome is a symbol you have to "find" with your imagination. Consider it a lasting testament of the city’s creativity and sense of humour.

Every September, the dwarfs take over the city. During the Wrocław Dwarf Festival, they spring to life with a roster of events around Staromiejski Garden and the baroque-era Rynek market square in the Old Town. Bringing in locals and visitors alike, this is a family-friendly celebration of the city’s heritage, and highlights include a parade of gnomes, jugglers and musicians through the streets, a Dwarf Village with interactive play areas for families, workshops and puppet shows showcasing dwarfs, and even a Dwarf Train giving free rides past some of the Wrocław gnomes in situ.

Tomasz Moczek is considered the “father” of the gnomes, and has created more than 100 of them. Other artists involved include theatre producer Alexander Golas and design team Marta Mirynowska and Piotr Makala – you can visit their studio at 22E Jesienna Street to see more gnomes in production.

Beautiful Poland is full of unusual attractions; perhaps you’d like to visit the salt mines outside Krakow or check out all the spectacular sights of Warsaw? But do come to say hello to the gnomes first!