Salt Mines in Krakow: A Hidden Underground World of Beauty and History

When you think of salt, the ubiquitous kitchen ingredient is probably the first thing that springs to mind. That will change as soon as you visit Wieliczka Salt Mine, about 15 kilometres from Krakow's city centre. It's a place where salt is anything but mundane – it sparkles like diamonds and every crystalline wall inside the mine has witnessed a bit of history.
 

What was once rock salt is now a collection of masterpieces, with ordinary tunnels transformed into astonishing chapels. The mine's depths reach over 300 metres below ground to its nearly 2,500 chambers, which are connected by about 250 kilometres of corridors. But enough of facts and figures! Instead, step out of your city-centre hotel in Krakow and get ready for your descent into this subterranean wonder.

Wieliczka Salt Mine's story begins in the 13th century. It was then that gray rock salt was first unearthed, which led to the construction of the first shafts. Salt would go on to play a crucial role in the region's economy for centuries to come, and the mine made a major contribution to the area's wealth and economic development until as recently as 1996.
 

Production ended that year, but what had been created stayed behind: a labyrinth of tunnels and chambers that span nine levels and is nothing short of breathtaking. What you see today is the artistry of many generations of miners who chose this site to perfect their craft and turned its saline walls into a gallery of sculptures and bas-reliefs.

Given that there are thousands of chambers at Wieliczka Salt Mine, you'd be hard-pressed to choose the jewel in the crown, but the Chapel of St. Kinga undoubtedly stands out. It's carved entirely from salt, from the floor to the ceiling, and even the altar, sculptures and the intricate chandeliers. This otherworldly space isn't small either, stretching 54 metres in length and with ceilings that soar 12 metres. The altar table holds relics said to belong to Saint Kinga herself, the patron saint of salt miners, while bas-reliefs adorning the walls depict biblical scenes like the last supper and the wedding in Cana. Today the chapel serves as a place of worship and hosts various cultural events, such as classical music performances – just imagine the acoustics! – and religious ceremonies.
 

Another stunning chamber within the mine complex is the Baroque St. Anthony Chapel, with detailed bas-reliefs and freestanding statues of the Virgin Mary and St. Anthony of Padua, the patron saint of ore miners. It's the oldest surviving chapel in the mine, dating back to the 17th century. Then there's the chamber with carved figures of gnomes imitating miners at work – a whimsical nod to Polish folklore. For families, the salt mine offers a special treat in the Wincenty Witos chamber: a playground where your children can listen to stories told by Kryształek, a talking salt lamp, learn about how miners used to communicate and examine salt crystals through a magnifying glass.

It's impossible to visit every single chamber inside the mine or walk all 250 kilometres of its corridors, but the good news is, Wieliczka offers several tours to suit your interests and fitness level. The most popular choice is the Tourist Route, which takes you through some of the mine’s most breathtaking areas, including the Chapel of St. Kinga, some underground lakes and a salt museum. This tour typically lasts two to three hours, and your guides have the answers to all the questions you might want to ask along the way.
 

If you're looking for a more hands-on adventure, the Miner's Route is the perfect tour for you. You'll put on some protective gear and you're ready to explore some of the less accessible parts of the mine, which will give you a glimpse into what life was like for miners back in the day.
 

Whatever your preferences, bear in mind that you'll descend 53 flights of stairs to reach the starting point. This may leave your legs a bit shaky, but it’s a small price to pay for all the wonders that are waiting for you below.

• Pack a warm layer or two. You'll be deep underground, where the temperature is a constant 14-16 degrees Celsius.
• Wear a comfortable, sturdy pair of trainers or boots. You'll be climbing plenty of stairs and walking on uneven ground.
• Bring an appetite. There are two restaurants at the mine – one 125 metres underground serving Polish classics – so just like a miner after a shift, you can enjoy a hearty meal.
• Stay in an equally elegant and unique hotel. In Krakow's historic heart, The Crown Krakow - Handwritten Collection is a sleek space with Art Deco-inspired interiors.

Once you're above ground again, take the time to stop by the Graduation Tower, a large wooden structure with a 22.5-metre-high observation tower and amazing panoramic views. This tower, the largest of its kind in southern Poland, was used to produce brine (salt water) of specific concentrations, and is now part of the salt mine's health resort. Going in is said to be good for anyone with respiratory issues, allergies or an immune system that needs a bit of a boost – the salty air is believed to be restorative and healing. Expect to spend about 30 minutes here.
 

Also make sure to visit the Krakow Saltworks Museum in the nearby Saltworks Castle (32-020 Wieliczka, Zamkowa 8), a five-minute scenic walk from the mine. Here you'll find exhibits related to the history of salt mining as well as a collection entitled Salt Cellars - Tiny Masterpieces, with salt dispensers made from porcelain, quartz, bone, silver, tin, glass, wood, mother-of-pearl and more, some of which are over 400 years old.

There are places you simply visit and there are places you feel. The salt mines in Krakow – a UNESCO Heritage site since 1978 – belong to this second group. It's the air, the stillness, the ingenuity. You'll remember it all every time someone asks you to pass the salt. Then you can tell them what salt really is!

Wieliczka Salt Mine

• Address: 32-020 Wieliczka, Daniłowicza 10
• Hours: 9am-5pm every day
• Regular tickets at 143 PLN (€34) for public tours