Seville's Old Town: Iconic Landmarks and Hidden Gems

Seville’s Old Town, known locally as the Casco Antiguo, is right in the centre of the city. Like many Spanish towns, its parameters are marked by the lines of the original city walls. The area is loosely divided into two barrios: Santa Cruz, which was the old Jewish ghetto, and El Arenal, which borders the Guadalquivir River. Several bridges connect the Casco Antiguo to other neighbourhoods of interest, including Triana – the birthplace of flamenco in Seville.

The Casco Antiguo’s meandering layout is best discovered on foot – and indeed car access is limited. The lack of traffic, and abundance of restaurants, top sites and shops make it a great place for families to stay. For example, ibis Styles Sevilla City Santa Justa Hotel is situated a short stroll from the city’s famous cathedral. Or if you are arriving in Seville by AVE (Spain’s high-speed train network), Novotel Sevilla is very near the train station. If you are arriving by plane, a taxi to Seville’s old town should cost €25-€35, depending on the time of day and incoming traffic.

With a history spanning 2,000 years – from the Moorish occupancy to the Christian Reconquista and onto modern Spain – there is a wealth of astounding sites clustered in Seville’s Old Town.

The natural place to start your adventure is the Cathedral of Seville (or Saint Mary of the See), a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Like a handful of other famous cathedrals in southern Spain, it was once a mosque serving worshippers of the Muslim-ruled dynasty of Al Andalus. Shortly after the Moors were banished from Seville in 1248, it became a Christian place of worship. From 1401 onwards it was heavily altered and expanded, and is one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in the world. It boasts the longest nave in the country, supporting an astonishing 80 side chapels.

Financed by the wealth accumulated in Seville after the Christian reconquest and flourishing maritime trade, Seville Cathedral has been witness to pivotal events in Spanish history. The baptism of Juan of Aragon, the only son of the Catholic Monarchs Ferdinand and Isabella, took place inside its walls.

Other highlights include the main chapel’s breathtaking gilded altarpiece and the Chapel of Saint Anthony, which displays a painting of the saint signed by the Baroque painter Bartolomé Esteban Murillo. Take a moment to dwell in the serene patio de naranjos (orange-tree patio). Once part of the original mosque, this is where worshippers would douse their hands and feet before a prayer session.

Visited in tandem with the cathedral of Seville, La Giralda is another glorious relic of the Arab caliphate. Originally the mosque’s minaret, it is now the cathedral’s bell tower. A series of 35 interconnected ramps, designed so that horsemen could reach the top, take you to the highest point in the city for spectacular views.

Seville Cathedral

• Address: Av. de la Constitución, s/n, 41004, Seville
• Open: Monday to Saturday 11 am–6pm, Sunday 2:30 pm–7 pm

Seville’s unique mix of Islamic, Gothic and Renaissance architecture is commonly known as Mudéjar. The Real Alcázar, situated adjacent to the cathedral complex in Seville Old Town, is a supreme example of this singular style.

Formerly the site of the 10th-century Islamic Citadel, the Real Alcázar was expanded over the following centuries into a much grander palace complex boasting the most exquisite artistry and craft. Once the building fell into Spanish hands, the monarchy ordered new wings and gardens, the most important being a Mudéjar-style palace commissioned by Peter of Castile.

Like the Alhambra in Granada, the Real Alcázar is a testament to two opposing, yet surprisingly synergetic, cultural and religious dynasties. Intricately carved horseshoe arches surround tranquil patios, while Gothic pomp and grandeur can be seen in rooms such as the Hall of Ambassadors. It is here, in 1526, that Charles V tied the royal knot with Isabella of Portugal, effectively bringing Spain’s neighbouring country into his domain.

• Address: Casco Antiguo, 41004 Seville
• Open: Daily October to March 9:30am-5pm, April to September 9:30am-7pm

You can dive deeper into the history of Spain’s Golden Age at the Archivo de Indias, which together with Seville Cathedral and the Real Alcázar forms the trio of Seville’s UNESCO World Heritage sites.

This prestigious institution houses a vast archive of documents detailing Spain’s exploration and expansion. Founded in 1572, the building was designed by Juan de Herrera, an outstanding architect of the period who also designed the monastery complex of San Lorenzo de El Escorial near Madrid. Today, over 8 km of historical documents relating to the history of Spain and its conquest of the Americas line its shelves – a must-see for bibliophiles.

The Museo del Baile Flamenco is situated underneath the striking Metropol Parasol (or "Las Setas") – one of the few contemporary landmarks in the Casco Antiguo, and the largest all-wood structure in Europe. It's a portal into the magical world of cante jondo with live performances, interactive exhibits and room upon room of flamenco artefacts.

Archivo de Indias

• Address: Av. de la Constitución, s/n, Casco Antiguo, 41004 Seville
• Open: Tuesday to Saturday 9:30 am–5 pm, Sunday 10 am–2 pm

After the cultural onslaught of Seville’s main sites and museums, you may want to partake in simpler pleasures.

Wandering Seville Old Town’s streets and squares – particularly around Calle Sierpes and Calle Tetuan – unveils a trove of unique treasures to bring back home, from ceramics to fans, flamenco garb and handmade leather goods.

Design aficionados should look out for local brands La Cartuja de Sevilla, for intricately decorated porcelain dinnerware, and Ex Votos – a local duo who make art pottery inspired by religious iconography. Lovers of antiques, vintage and bric-a-brac should head to El Jueves flea market, held every Thursday on the Calle Feria. And fashionistas wanting to channel the flirty, haughty look of local señoritas should seek out the fabulously flowy dresses from Victoria & Lucchino – Seville’s best-known designers.

Just opposite the west wall of the cathedral, Póster Félix (Plaza del Cabildo, 7) has a vast array of gorgeous Andalusian travel and flamenco posters, both original and reproduction. For stylish fashion and homewares, La Importadora (C/Pérez Galdós, 2) carries an eclectic mix of local creators.

Seville is a paradise for shoe lovers. Antonio Ortiz (C/Velazquez, 5) specialises in sparkly stilettos and bejewelled brogues – though you can pick up a pair of sheepskin house slippers here too. For traditional Spanish espadrilles and sandals with a fun, fashionable twist, head to Handmade the Brand (Calle Sierpes, 70). All shoes are crafted on the premises, and you can participate in a workshop to learn how to make them yourself.

A glass of fino sherry, a few slithers of jamón ibérico, a bowl of plump manzanilla olives ... some of the most memorable eating experiences in Seville are the most unfussy. The old town is bursting with places for quick sidewalk snacks, but for a true taste of the city, head to one of the century-old bars that have served locals for generations.

El Rinconcillo (C/ Gerona, 40, Tel. 954 22 31 83), established in 1670, is one of Seville's oldest taverns. It serves classic Andalusian dishes, such as bacalao (salt cod) and berenjenas con miel (fried eggplant drizzled with honey). Locals love pork, so try cuts such as presa and secreta here.

Casa Robles (C/ Álavarez Quintero, 58, Tel. 954 21 31 50) in Santa Cruz is another local institution. With a focus on seasonal produce (particularly fresh fish) served with creative flair, you may be offered dishes such as wild sea bass served with wasabi aioli or creamy rice with bull’s tail.

Unlike many other parts of Spain, a free tapa when you order a drink is still a thing in Seville. But for a true tapas blow-out, head to an authentic tapas restaurant. Near the Museo de Bellas Artes, and named after the famous duck, Cafeteria Donald (C/ Canalejas,3, Tel. 954 22 72 52) is covered floor to ceiling in bullfighting memorabilia. Its signature tapa is ensaladilla rusa; a creamy potato and tuna salad that excels the sum of its parts.

For a more contemporary experience, El Pintón (C/ Franco 42, Tel. 955 07 51 53) is a hip hotspot for food, drinks and occasional live music. In an interior that blends Moorish architecture with contemporary design, you can enjoy dynamic dishes such as rabbit tajos escabeche and spicy tomato mussels, with cocktail pairing.

Seville, and in particular its Old Town, is where you'll find archetypal Spain woven with ancient cultures from other lands. It's an experience not easily forgotten, so make sure to book a hotel and start exploring this fascinating corner of Spain.