Experience Authentic Flamenco Culture in Seville: Feel the Spirit

Flamenco is more than music. It’s a culture, a lifestyle, the soundtrack of the Romani (gypsy) peoples mixed with influences from ancient Moorish and Jewish traditions.

While the exact origins of flamenco is often revised, it's generally agreed that it developed in Andalucia in the 15th century – the time of the Reconquista when gypsies, along with Moors and Jews, were persecuted. Thus, lament, loss and sorrow are common themes in flamenco lyrics and poetry.

Seville, the ethnically and culturally diverse capital of Andalucia, has played a pivotal role in both nurturing classical flamenco and taking the music and dance into innovative new territories, fusing it with pop, jazz and other modern genres.

Almost as soon as you arrive, you'll appreciate the passion locals have for flamenco culture; elegant señoritas parading in cascading skirts and embroidered shawls, spontaneous displays of dancing in local squares, and solitary men on street corners wailing out cante jondo (deep song) as if their very souls depended on it.

Once you start familiarising yourself with flamenco in Seville, you will notice one word repeated again and again – duende. Loosely translated as ‘spirit’, duende is the essence of flamenco, the state of rapture that the music brings when practised at the highest form. For flamenco musicians, chasing the duende is a goal. For observers, taking the ride with them can be nothing short of ecstatic.

Although it often sounds spontaneous and ad-libbed, over 60 defined types of flamenco song (or palos) exist. The most cheerful and rhythmic are bulerías. Seville provides the soundtrack to the folk dance that is practiced all over Andalucia, at celebrations as well as festivals such as the famous Feria de Abril (April Fair).

Haunting soleás are when the dancer is able to express slow, sensual movements. Alegrías are fast party songs and often start with the chant "tiriti tran tran tran". At this point, the audience will join in and start clapping their hands to punctuate (rather than follow) the rhythm – a skill known as palmas.

From candle-lit tablaos and local peñas (club houses) to lavish supper shows and big concert productions, there are many ways to experience flamenco in Seville. With the exception of big-name acts and major festivals such as the Feria de Abril and Biennale de Flamenco, there is generally no need to book ahead. Being the spiritual home of the music, flamenco in Seville, even in venues geared more towards tourists, is almost always of a very high standard.

Situated in a noble palace, the Casa de La Memoria (C/ Cuna 6) is a well-established flamenco cultural centre that stages nightly shows from prominent local artists and has an excellent reputation, even among locals. For a flamenco night out with all the trimmings, including sherry tastings and gourmet tapas, the Tablao Flamenco Las Setas is situated underneath Las Setas - the landmark, modern square in Seville's old town. For something more authentic and low-key, head across the Guadalquivir river to Triana, the historic gypsy neighbourhood of Seville. Here, the Teatro Flamenco Triana puts on regular shows in a cosy local theatre.

One of the wonderful aspects of flamenco in Seville is how it crosses all generations and demographics. For a truly authentic experience, La Madriguera de Mai bar (C/ Arrayan 23) offers vegetarian food and live flamenco performances in an inclusive atmosphere.

• If attending a low-key performance in a local bar, get there early for a table at the front as many venues don't have elevated stages.
• Ordering food is not really obligatory, but should be done as a sign of appreciation and to keep this wonderful tradition of informal flamenco performances in Seville alive.
• Sometimes the artists will pass a hat around at the end of the show; another way you can demonstrate your enjoyment.

You don't need to have gypsy heritage or even be Spanish to learn flamenco dance or guitar. Some of its most famous artists, such as the prize-winning Japanese dancer Junko Hagiwara, are foreign. However, it does take decades of dedication to reach professional level.

Seville has numerous prestigious schools and academies offering immersive courses. El Museo de Balie Flamenco and La Casa de Memoria are both cultural centres that teach all things flamenco. Run by a local dancer, the Escuela Flamenca Juan Polvillo is a little more casual and geared towards foreign learners. The Taller de Flamenco offers weekend courses for beginners, in guitar, dance, percussion and the art of palmas (hand clapping).

Away from the souvenir outlets, there are several unique shops in Seville where you can purchase flamenco instruments, fashion and accessories.

• Equestrian culture has close ties to flamenco. Guarnicioneria López (C/ Moratín, 32) specialises in beautifully made saddlebags, belts and other horsey paraphernalia from its workshop in Seville’s old town.
• Lina Sevilla (C/ Alvarez Quintero 11) has been outfitting flamenca divas and aficionadas since 1960, and has an exquisite range of full-flounce dresses, skirts and handmade fans.
• Eclectic fashionistas will adore the chandelier-lit store of Juan Foronda (Plaza Virgin de los Reyes 3) for its leather gloves, embroidered shawls and lace mantillas (head scarves).

The flamenco guitar is a work of art. Makers must pass rigid exams at an escuela de guitarrero before they are qualified to create one, a process that can take as long as 20 years to reach maestro level. To learn more about this fascinating world of music and master craftsmanship, visit the shop at La Casa de la Guitarra (C/ Meson de Moro, 12) which also has a fascinating museum.

For many, flamenco can be a slow burner. Its musical and lyrical style is like no other, and often jars with ears more accustomed to classic musical compositions. Before you embark on your journey into flamenco in Seville, watch one of the handful of excellent films dedicated to the artform as a prelude.

In the early and mid 1990s, Spanish filmmaker Carlos Saura made two seminal performance films of the cante jondo; Flamenco and Sevillanas. Both transformed disused railway stations into a backdrop to capture the passion and artistry of flamenco. They feature artists such as the late, great Paco de Lucia, the legendary Carmen Linares and Joaquín Cortés, a dancer who became an international celebrity for his breakaway style.

Latcho Drom (Safe Journey) by French director Tony Gatlif portrays, through music, the odyssey of the nomadic Romani peoples. Starting off in northern India, it travels through Egypt, Turkey, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia and France, before ending in Andalucia, where the famous flamenco singer La Caita sings of the centuries of persecution suffered by the gitanos (gypsies).

Whether you're a seasoned flamenco aficionado or a curious newcomer, Seville offers an unforgettable immersion into this passionate art form. The city pulsates with the rhythm of flamenco, inviting you to tap your feet, sway your hips and lose yourself in the magic of this uniquely Spanish expression.