Discover the Soul of Food in Lyon: 5 Things To Know

It's said that there are more restaurants per head in this city than any other place: roughly 4,000 restaurants nestle at the confluence of two rivers. As you feel a joyful warmth from the peppery, savoury depth of rosette de Lyon sausage or take turns to dip bread in soft cervelle de canut (cheese mixed with herbs, garlic and olive oil), you'll connect with the history of "the Mothers of Lyon" – women who brought the cooking of homes and farms to the city's traditional bouchon restaurants.

From the 18th century, these "Mères Lyonnaises" fed workers from the local silk industry and travellers on their way through the Rhône Valley, from Paris to Nice. When motor traffic increased in the early 1900s, the tire-making Michelin brothers produced guides to the best restaurants for drivers. Today, Lyon has more than 20 Michelin-starred venues. Paul Bocuse, the city's most legendary chef, held three Michelin stars for more than half a century.

In Lyon, culinary culture is deeply intertwined with work and daily routine. In bouchons (traditional restaurants serving rustic Lyonnaise cuisine) where silk workers once gathered, groups of blue-collar workers still pass around wine and shareable plates, the satisfied murmur of food chat humming in the background. Generous mid-shift breaks mean lunch is long enough to be a culinary event. Another thing you'll notice is that food in Lyon often focuses on less common cuts of meat, because historically these were what remained available to working people after the aristocrats and bourgeoisie got the most desirable cuts.

It's not only Lyon restaurants that make the city an essential stop on any European food tour. In June, the Lyon Street Food Festival brings celebrated chefs out of their kitchens to offer workshops. Join enthusiastic locals to enjoy food stands and live music, and embrace rare opportunities, like witnessing truffle dishes being prepared by experts right in front of you. 

As you find your favourite bouchons and learn more about the culture of food in Lyon, you probably won't be surprised to learn that this heritage shaped wonderfully unique dishes. Take tablier de sapeur: beef tripe marinated in white wine and then fried in breadcrumbs, similar to schnitzel.

Pike quenelles are perhaps the most Lyonese food of all. The creamed pike is steamed as dumplings and served with creamy Nantua sauce, a béchamel sauce flavoured with crayfish butter. Chicken dishes include gâteau de foies de volaille (chicken liver terrine), and poulet au vinaigre à la Lyonnaise, with its tangy vinegar sauce. To be delighted by the sweet side of Lyon, try pink praline – almonds with a pink, crusty coating – which are crunched whole or crushed in tarte à la praline, the "Lyon cake".

Connect with the land around Lyon when you sample exceptional regional produce. The town of Bourg-en-Bresse, an hour's drive northeast, is renowned for poulet de Bresse, the only chicken with EU Protected Designation of Origin. The rich poulet à la crème dish comes from this area. At Les 3 Dômes, a refined, modern highlight among Lyon restaurants, chef Jérémy Ravier makes the very best of regional produce in beautifully presented dishes. Panoramic city views add unforgettable flair.

Whatever you're in the mood for, you'll find a place in Lyon to suit. Settle shoulder-to-shoulder with local gastronomes in the convivial dining room of Le Musée, a mainstay in the former city hall stables and a perfect example of living history in Lyon. You'll find it in the central 2nd arrondissement, between the rivers. Across the Rhône, Daniel et Denise is an enduring, country-style haven, where award-winning chef Joseph Viola cooks specialties like crayfish omelette and seasonal vegetable soup. As you stroll through this UNESCO city, you might discover a new hidden-gem bouchon to make your own.

Some of the best restaurants in Lyon spotlight global cuisine. Amore e Sapori on the eastern bank of the Rhône dishes up rugged Sicilian fare, and Chez Bànôi offers generous, home-style Vietnamese cuisine opposite the famous Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse market. The French-Lebanese restaurant Ayla is also in the area and has an allergen-guided menu if you're seeking out gluten-free Lyon. For elevated French cuisine with a sublime South American twist, dine in a striking, garden-style setting at Pampa inside Pullman Lyon.

Seeking out the best food in Lyon is a daily occurrence for residents. At Lyon markets, locals visit to meet friends as much as shop. Fall in love with food and flowers at Croix-Rousse market in an area known as a village within the city, and pick up on the quirks of local dialect as you browse Saint-Antoine Célestins Food Market. Here, small-scale producers set up along the Saône River in view of the Old Town, and a drink on the terrace with shopping bags at your feet is customary.

Early risers shop alongside Lyon's chefs, but there's always the option to visit the Friday evening farmers' market at Dardilly, 20 minutes' drive out of Lyon, slipping into the easy pace of village life. Back in the centre, walk among aromas of seafood platters and boulangerie ovens at Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, where the man himself once sourced his ingredients. Feeling adventurous? Try the pig's trotters.
 

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

• 102 Cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon
• Open 7 days a week, restaurants open at lunchtime
• Use the Halles Paul Bocuse bus stop (3-min walk) or Place Guichard Bourse du Travail metro station (8-min walk)

With so much to uncover about food in Lyon, you'll ideally need a few days for your gastronomic adventure, so book your accommodation now!

What are the food prices like in Lyon?

Prices vary greatly between simple bistros and Michelin-starred restaurants, but a meal at a typical Lyon bouchon costs €30-€40.

What are the wine regions near Lyon?

The wine regions of Beaujolais and Côtes du Rhône are both close to Lyon. Appoint a designated driver or book wine tours with transport to ensure a safe and enjoyable day.

Are food workshops offered in Lyon?

Yes, various food workshops take place in Lyon, including classes for adults and children at L'atelier Des Chefs Lyon. Praline et Rosette offers a walking tour that includes a visit to a Lyon chocolate atelier.