A Cultural Guide to Eating Out in Rome

Wondering what and where to eat in the Eternal City? You should be spoilt for choice among the profusion of street-side trattorie and chic restaurants offering fresh, seasonal and authentic Roman dishes from recipes passed down through generations. However, all too many eateries cater to tourists, serving food that isn’t fresh, seasonal or even genuinely Roman, so here’s how to dodge the pitfalls and dine like a native when you’re eating out in Rome. Follow this guide to experience the city through its sublime food – give yourself a head start and book Rome city-centre hotels so you’re close to the top dining districts.

Navigating your way through the etiquette of eating out in Rome requires some explanation. Bear these local customs in mind and you’ll negotiate through the gastronomic minefield with confidence – and it might well lead you to rooftop Gigi Rigolatto Roma for its exquisite contemporary take on traditional Roman cuisine.

A quick coffee (milky cappuccino or an espresso) and maritozzo pastry (orange, vanilla and honey brioche filled with whipped cream) ordered in the local bar usually suffice for the Romans.

Romans often eat lunch on the hoof too. If they don’t have time to sit down for a full meal around 1pm, you’ll see locals eating street food like pizza slices or suppli (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with tomatoes and cheese) on the street.

Romans eat late! Dinner menus can be tricky to navigate, as they’re divided into antipasti (appetisers), primi (first course, often pasta) and secondi, usually a meat course accompanied by a contorni (side dish) of seasonal vegetables. Proceedings wrap up with dolci (desserts). However, there’s no need to follow this slavishly; order a couple of antipasti to share among you, then pick either a primi or secondi. If you choose to eat dessert, it’s often followed by an inky black espresso or a local digestive like limoncello – the latter frequently offered on the house.

Keep these insider tips in mind and you won’t have any nasty surprises when eating out in Rome.

1. If you’re dining near the Spanish Steps or the Vatican, chances are you’re paying for the location rather than the quality of the cuisine.
2. Avoid any restaurant with pictures of their dishes posted outside; likewise never be lured into a restaurant by a beguiling waiter promising you the “best spaghetti in Rome”!
3. Reservations are virtually essential for eating out in Rome at night, and you get your table for the whole evening. Dining out in Rome is a leisurely pursuit, so the waiting staff will not hurry you. You will need to ask for the bill yourself..
4. Tipping is optional in Rome, but it is customary to leave a small gratuity (a few euros in loose change). Fine-dining restaurants like the fabulous Settimo, with its panoramic views over city landmarks, often add a service charge (servizio) of 10-15% to the bill, which you should pay unless you are unhappy with the service. Further tips are not expected on top of the servizio.
5. You can order whatever coffee you want at any time of day. The myth that cappuccino is “banned” after 11am is nonsense – but please don’t ask for Parmesan cheese on seafood or fish dishes!

Not sure where to eat? Here’s a micro-guide to the various culinary establishments in Rome.

• Ristorante: High-end dining, often with set menus created by big-name chefs and with sommeliers to guide you through the wine list.
• Trattoria: Lively, cosy and informal; the best are family-run and offer traditional dishes at affordable prices.
• Osteria: Originally cosy bars serving aperitivo snacks to accompany local wines, but now often synonymous with trattorie.
• Enoteca: Formerly wine shops and now bars in an assortment of styles – from rustic to uber-modern – serving simple snacks to soak up the wines.
• Pizzeria: Self-explanatory. Sells Roman-style pizza with a crispy base.
• Tavola calda: The Roman version of a takeaway, offering street snacks, salads and ready-made pasta dishes to go.
• Gelateria: Shop or café only selling Rome’s fluffier, more milky version of ice cream in any number of seasonal flavours.

Rome has its own distinct regional food specialties influenced by history, culture and – of course – what grows well locally. Don’t be surprised if you encounter new dishes on your culinary journey.

Bruschetta is a Roman staple starter of bread rubbed with garlic and topped by olive oil and tomatoes. It’s believed bruschetta originated in the 15th century, when farmers dipped bread into their own olive oil for a richer taste. Stop at Pane e Salame (Via Santa Maria in Via, 19, 00187 Roma), midway between Via del Corso and the Trevi fountain, for some of the best bruschetta in the city.

This much-loved appetiser is a simple artichoke deep-fried in olive oil and has been handed down directly from Rome’s historic Jewish community. Virtually all the restaurants along Via del Portico d'Ottavia in the Jewish Quarter have this on their menus; BaGhetto at no. 57 is always a reliable choice.

Zucchini (courgette) flowers show up on Roman menus in several different ways; as a fried antipasto or a side dish to accompany your secondi, in which case they are stuffed with mozzarella cheese. Their use in cooking goes back to ancient Roman times. If you've just spent the day exploring the Vatican, stroll to Osteria Ragno d'oro for these and other Roman classics.

The archetypal Roman pasta dish is served with grated pecorino cheese and black pepper; its sublime simplicity was born out of the cucina povera (peasant cooking) tradition started by itinerant shepherds. Hostaria Farnese (Via Dei Baullari, 109, 00186 Roma), on a side street off the famed Campo de' Fiori square, does generous portions of cacio e pepe and other pasta dishes.

Pizza may have its roots in Naples, but the Roman version is paper thin, crisp and baked in a wood-fired oven; a classic topping is the Capricciosa with prosciutto, mushrooms, olives, artichokes and tomatoes. Pinsa e Ciccia (Via Silicella, 26, 00169 Roma) is a little out of the way but worth the detour if you're eating out in Rome for its traditional vibe and delicious pinsa.

Although several Italian regions claim this dish as their own, the tasty 19th-century Roman take on saltimbocca – veal wrapped in prosciutto crudo, seasoned with sage and flash-fried in white wine – is thought to be the original version. It certainly follows the local tradition of using a few quality ingredients to create a spectacular taste. A favourite with politicians due to its proximity to the Palazzo Montecitorio, Da Gino al Parlamento (Vicolo Rosini, 4, 00186 Roma) offers delicious saltimbocca in a cheery, colourful dining room.

A boneless pork roast seasoned with herbs, wrapped in its rind, and cooked slowly over a wood fire, porchetta originated in the countryside around Rome. Today it’s one of the city’s best-loved street foods, cut into chunks and served between slabs of pizza bianca (flatbread). Like pinsa, there are stalls and shops all over Rome selling porchetta; one of the most beloved for its freshness and flavour is La Vita è Un Mozzico (Via Angelo Brunetti, 4, 00186 Roma), near Piazza del Popolo.

The perfect “portable dessert” and an inexpensive treat, gelato can be found on virtually every street corner in Rome. Flavours vary from the traditional stracciatella (shaved chocolate) or pistachio to seasonal lemon or raspberry. Torcè (Viale Aventino, 59, 00153 Roma), an unassuming little gelateria near Aventine Hill and the Circus Maximus, serves up an ever-changing menu of deliciously fresh scoops, including non-dairy and vegan choices.

Hopefully after reading this guide you’ll get to experience eating out in Rome at its best. If you’d like to know more about other European cuisines, read about Vienna's best cafés or how to eat well in Berlin’s street-food markets.