Old Port of Marseille: the Heart of the City

From its beginnings as a Mediterranean trading and fishing port through the naval battles of the Middle Ages to its apogee in the late 19th century, the Old Port remains the emblematic hub of Marseille today. The neat marina is embraced on either side by the Saint-Nicolas and Saint-Jean forts, its quays graced with stone buildings topped with terracotta-tiled roofs. The timeless beauty of the sea and the architecture contrasts with the vibrant activity around the port. Fishmongers and artisans extol the virtues of their wares in the typical sing-song accent of the south of France, and tourists and locals mingle on the terraces of cafés and restaurants.

The marriage of Protis and Gyptis is the founding legend of Marseille. As the story goes, around 600 BC, Simos and Protis, leaders of a Phocaean colonial expedition, sailed into the Lacydon cove, today’s Vieux Port. They approached Nannos, Gallic King of the Segobriges, to ask for his friendship. As fate would have it, it was the wedding day of Princess Gyptis. According to local custom, the king would give his daughter’s hand in marriage to a suitor chosen during the banquet. All the potential candidates were present, and the newly arrived Greek guests were invited to join them. The king presented Princess Gyptis and instructed her to offer water to the man she would choose as her husband. Turning away from all the local suitors, she gave the cup to Protis. King Nannos then offered his new son-in-law the cove that is now the Old Port as a dowry, and thus the Greek colony of Massalia was established.

A commemorative plaque on the Quai des Belges reads “Here in 600 BC Greek sailors arrived from Phocaea, a city in Asia Minor. They founded Marseille, from where civilisation spread to the West.” Massalia became a strategic trading post for the Greeks, which led to local production of ceramics and amphorae, pottery containers used to transport wine, cereals and other goods. The Middle Ages saw the construction of the Abbey of Saint Victor, and the fortifications which were later to become Fort Saint-Jean, built under Louis XIV, who also ordered the construction of Fort Saint-Nicolas. The classical façades and grand avenues, such as the Canebière, date from the Renaissance period. Until the mid-19th century, the Old Port was the economic centre of the city, using the trading route of the French colonial empire to spread its influence throughout the Mediterranean. It was during this glorious period that the Cathedral of Saint Mary Major, referred to locally as La Major, was built. Badly bombed by both the Axis and Allies during WWII, much of the Old Port’s current architecture dates from the 1950s. Today, one of the most prominent buildings is the Mucem (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations) built in 2010.

• Map of Marseille Old Port

During the French Revolution, volunteers from Marseille marching on Paris sang the revolutionary song, adopted in 1795 as the French national anthem, with such enthusiasm that it became known as La Marseillaise.

Begin at Fort Saint-Jean (museum open 9am to 6pm). Walk along the Quai du Port, with the masts of the marina on your right and the elegant, uniform façades on your left. Pause to admire the historic Hôtel de Ville, standing gracefully between the more modern buildings. At the end of the marina, step into the cool freshness of the magnificent Church of Saint-Ferréol les Augustins, with its beautiful arched dome. Continue along the Quai des Belges until you reach the Vieux Port Métro stop, then wander as far as you like up one side of the Canebière and down the other. This leafy avenue, named after the Provençal word for hemp, from Marseille’s rope-making days, is lined with 18th century buildings housing clothing boutiques, bookstores and artisanal shops. End by visiting the Marché aux Poissons, open from 8am to 1pm, on the Quai de la Fraternité. This is where local restaurant chefs find their fresh fish and seafood.

Seated on its esplanade looking out to sea, La Major is an emblematic monument to the heyday of Marseille’s Old Port. Its first stone was laid on 26 September 1852 by Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte, according to architect Léon Vaudoyer’s design. France’s largest 19th-century religious building, with dimensions comparable to those of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, La Major was to be worthy of the nation’s largest port, and able to accommodate 3,000 worshippers. With a Gothic cross floor plan and Roman-Byzantine-style elevation, its dimensions make it one of the most majestic cathedrals in the world. Its total length is 146 metres and the main dome is almost 70 metres high, making it the largest belfry in France. The façade is adorned with sculptures of Christ, apostles Peter and Paul and Provençal saints, and a bronze statue of Monseigneur de Belsunce, bishop of Marseille during the plague of 1720.

Good to know:

• Address: Place de la Major, 13002 Marseilles
• Open: 10am to 6pm (7pm in summer)
• Entry: Free

This unique Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations follows, analyses and explains the ancient foundations of this area of civilisation, right up to the present time. Explore its multi-faceted exhibitions combining anthropology, history, archaeology, art history and contemporary art, showing the interaction between Europe and the Mediterranean over the centuries. The imposing J4 building, right on the waterfront, is accessible on foot from the Old Port via the Quai du Port and Promenade Robert Laffont. It is also linked to Fort Saint-Jean by a covered footbridge. The J4 building, designed by Rudy Ricciotti and Roland Carta, is recognised internationally for its architecture, a successful marriage of technical proficiency and striking aesthetics. A perfect cube of concrete lacework is supported externally by over 300 tree-like pillars, made from state-of-the-art UHPFRC (ultra-high-performance fibre-reinforced concrete).

Good to know:

• Open every day except Tuesday, from 10am to 6pm (8pm in summer).

The Old Port is the departure point for several routes to various islands and inlets.

Visit the emerald waters of Marseille’s emblematic coves by catamaran or motorboat. Some companies, such as BluEvasion, offer the opportunity to swim in the Calanques. Trips vary in length and price according to your choice of vessel.

An electric ferry boat to this picturesque group of islands has been operating for the past 130 years. The village of Frioul is part of the 7th arrondissement of Marseille, home to around a hundred permanent residents. A small chapel perched on a rocky outcrop overlooks the village.

This island, of The Count of Monte Cristo fame, is accessible by the same ferry. Dominated by a castle built as a fortress by François I in 1516, it became a prison only twenty years later. Today the historical monument is open daily except Monday from 10:30am to 5:15pm (6pm in summer).

Situated a few paces from Fort Saint-Nicolas, Sofitel Marseille Vieux Port is one of the finest hotels in Marseille Old Port. Or, if you prefer a bit of greenery, try the Mercure Marseille Centre Vieux Port Hotel, located near the Jardin des Vestiges park.

We hear that La Table d'Olivier serves one of the best bouillabaisse seafood stews in town. Open midday from Monday to Friday, and Friday evenings. Or enjoy stunning views during a meal at Les Trois Forts, overlooking the marina.

Visiting Old Port Marseille is a full-flavoured Provençal experience, overflowing with history, culture, beauty and delicious seafood – it’s no wonder the locals are reputed for exaggeration!