Edinburgh Festivals: A Wealth of Music, Performances and Literature

The Scottish capital’s festivals attract artists and creative types from all four corners of the globe, as well as thousands of visitors. And not just in summer either – Edinburgh seemingly has a festival for every season. This is a city that loves to celebrate, whether the focus is on art, performance, theatre, literature or science. But even if all you want to do is immerse yourself in Scottish culture rather than get caught up in festivities, it’s still well worth a visit. And let’s be honest – there’s nowhere quite like the Scottish capital for soaking up a bit of festival atmosphere, so make a note of these festivals in Edinburgh for your next trip to Scotland.

In summer, festival fever reigns supreme in Edinburgh and normality is suspended. The Scottish capital plays host to several fantastic festivals at the same time, and you can’t turn a corner without running into another stage or performance. If you’re in Edinburgh in August, keep an eye out while wandering through the cobbled streets – you might suddenly find yourself in the middle of a performance.

Today it's one of the biggest festivals in Edinburgh, but the Edinburgh Festival Fringe started out as more of a marginal event – “in the fringes”, as it were. When the Edinburgh International Festival (EIF) was set up after World War II in 1947, organisers invited just a select few established artists to take part. Eight theatre groups that didn’t make it into the programme came to the city anyway and performed unofficially – and the concept caught on.

Over the decades, this festival for theatre, comedy, stand-up, magic and cabaret has grown enormously. Today, artists, musicians and comedians from all over the world come to perform in the city alongside the more traditional EIF, which takes place at the same time. Many hope that this will be a springboard to greater things. For example, this is where Phoebe Waller-Bridge, author and lead actor of the successful Fleabag series, was discovered.

But with such a huge amount on offer, you’ll need to make a few choices: Edinburgh now hosts more than 50,000 performances (around 3,900 productions in total) in over 300 venues across the city during its three-week run. On the Royal Mile in the Old Town, you’ll find crowds jostling to catch a glimpse of street performers and acrobats. And you may stumble across stand-up shows or performances in improvised or unusual venues, like a laundrette, an old church or a tucked-away alleyway.

Love Scottish culture? Want to see performance and military precision blending beautifully? Head to Edinburgh Castle on an August evening to join thousands of other spectators at the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo. Every year since 1950, the historic esplanade in front of the atmospherically lit castle transforms into an open-air stage for one of Scotland’s biggest military music festivals as military bands from across the globe march across the castle courtyard playing their drums and trumpets. One of the biggest highlights each year is the performance by the Massed Pipes and Drums, comprising around 180 bagpipers and drummers, which commemorates British soldiers stationed in Flanders in the 18th century. Back then, military bands were said to have drummed in the streets when it was time for last orders in the pub.

Despite its origins, the Military Tattoo is no longer solely dedicated to military music. Alongside action-packed performances from international artists, the Highland Spring Dancers whirl across the courtyard to traditional Scottish tunes. And every evening ends with the Lone Piper, standing alone on the castle walls in blue light, playing a lament in memory of the fallen before the whole crowd sings Auld Lang Syne. It’s a moment that sends shivers down your spine. Tickets are best booked in advance.

The world may not wait for Edinburgh with quite the same anticipation as it does for Cannes, but when British and international filmmakers gather at the Edinburgh Filmhouse in August, the city still hums with excitement. The Edinburgh International Film Festival (EIFF) regularly premieres films that later captivate audiences around the world. And you might well bump into a film star or two. Originally focused on documentaries, the festival now includes feature films, shorts and animations, all with a strong focus on emerging talent. At one point, the EIFF was moved to June to prevent the city from overflowing during midsummer, but it has recently returned to August. Tickets start from £10 (€11.35).

If you’ve got a soft spot for the written word and fancy a break from art and theatre, then head to the Edinburgh Futures Institute at the southern end of the Old Town. There, behind the historic walls, is where British and international authors present their novels, non-fiction books and autobiographies as part of the Edinburgh International Book Festival. Listen to the readings – and sometimes heated discussions – and enjoy the shared laughter. The stories told here are sometimes touching and funny, sometimes adventurous and visionary. And if you're a budding writer, why not take part in one of the writing workshops? Or simply browse the festival bookshop for your next summer read, before taking the short, six-minute stroll back to your central Edinburgh hotel.

Love a good story but prefer a more intimate setting? Then head to Edinburgh in the second half of October, when the city landscape turns into hues of fiery red and mellow gold. At the Scottish International Storytelling Festival, you can listen to folk tales and legends from around the world, often in small groups and sometimes in magical locations under the open sky. Experience firsthand the kind of power that stories and myths can have as you track down mythical creatures, hunt sea monsters and wander through the Arctic together with the storytellers. There are no limits to your imagination here. Readings are in Scottish, Gaelic and English.

You’ll see just how much the Scots love to party when you experience Hogmanay, or New Year’s Eve. Celebrations here don’t just last one night but three – at least in Edinburgh. Everything kicks off on 29 December with the Torchlight Procession, when thousands parade through the Old Town with torches, accompanied by bagpipers and drummers. On New Year’s Eve, the ancient streets fill with locals and visitors ready to welcome the new year together. Live bands, DJs and street artists keep everyone entertained from small stages and stalls. Join the crowds at the big street festival and sing Auld Lang Syne at midnight, just as fireworks light up the sky above Edinburgh Castle.

Before the festival season kicks off again in summer, spring brings a celebration of science and technology to the city. If you want to awaken your spirit of discovery while taking in Edinburgh’s top sights, plan your trip for March or April. Easter is when locals’ love of experimenting, simulating and tinkering really comes to life. Kids will love it too, as the festival lets them step into the shoes of scientists and explore natural phenomena. Attend lectures on unexplained discoveries or new scientific achievements, join discussions on future-oriented issues and see Edinburgh from a new perspective. The Edinburgh Science Festival takes you to many venues that are probably already on your sightseeing list, including Edinburgh Zoo, Grassmarket, the National Museum, St Giles’ Cathedral and the Royal Botanic Garden.​​

From the long summer evenings of August to the torch-lit streets of Hogmanay, the Scottish capital proves time and again that it's a city built for celebration. So whenever you choose to visit, chances are there's a festival waiting to welcome you to Edinburgh.