7 December 2024
5 minutes
Away from the famous sites of central Rome, the bohemian district of Trastevere is where authentic local life unfolds in a tangle of intimate alleys and lively piazzas.
7 December 2024
5 minutes
Nestled on the west bank of the River Tiber, Trastevere is one of Rome's most atmospheric neighborhoods, known for its old-world architecture, vibrant street life and thriving culinary scene. Long home to artists and craftsmen, it boasts a bohemian charm that sets it apart from the rest of the city.
The labyrinth of cobblestone streets, lined by ochre-hued buildings and ivy-draped facades, forms a photogenic backdrop for everyday life to play out. By day, you'll stumble upon faded grand palazzos, ornate frescoed churches and atmospheric squares. At sunset, the area transforms into a nocturnal hub, with bustling bars spilling out onto the street and cozy trattorias serving centuries-old Roman recipes.
Overlooking it all is Janiculum Hill, offering breathtaking views of the city. This peaceful park feels a world away from the tourist-heavy sights of the city center.
One of Rome's oldest districts, Trastevere has a rich history dating back to ancient times. Its name means "beyond the Tiber" (from the Latin trans Tiberim ), reflecting its location across the river, outside the boundaries of early Rome. Due to its proximity to the river and trade routes, the area became home to sailors, fishermen and working-class immigrants, including Jewish and Syrian communities.
During the Imperial age, Trastevere gained prominence as wealthy Romans, including Julius Caesar, built luxurious villas in the area. Many of the area's churches and narrow, winding streets were added during the medieval period. By the Renaissance, Trastevere saw the rise of palaces built by wealthy Roman families, with ornate facades, arched windows and courtyards, many of which are still standing today.
Trastevere is home to some of Rome's most impressive historical landmarks. Take your time to explore its hidden corners and you'll stumble upon countless treasures that showcase the area's storied past.
"I love Rome and the way that you can wander around and find something interesting around every street corner. You can smell the history." - Jonathan Agnew, broadcaster
A grand centrepiece of Trastevere's main square, Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere is believed to be Rome's oldest church dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It was built in the early third century but the Romanesque bell tower and golden mosaic were added during 12th-century renovations. The lavish interior features 22 Roman columns and intricate frescoes depicting the Virgin Mary's life.
Good to know : Legend has it that a stream of oil sprang from the ground on the site of the church on the night of Christ's birth – a sign that was interpreted as divine and inspired the construction of the basilica.
Visiting tips : The basilica is a 10-minute walk from Trastevere station or a short tram ride on Line 8. Visit early to avoid the crowds.
This impressive 16th-century Renaissance villa was commissioned by Tuscan banker Agostino Chigi to host lavish banquets for artists, poets, cardinals, princes and politicians of the day, including the pope himself. The interior is adorned with exquisite frescoes, including Cupid and Psyche by Raphael and a panorama of 16th-century Rome by Peruzzi, which creates an illusionary perspective of a colonnade.
Visiting tips: The villa is a short walk south from Ponte Sisto or accessible by bus Line H (stop: Piazza Belli). After visiting the villa, take time to explore the peaceful gardens.
Designed by Ferdinando Fuga in a grand Versailles style, the 16th-century palace was once home to Queen Christina of Sweden. Inside, the Galleria Corsini houses part of Italy’s national art collection, showcasing Renaissance masterpieces such as Caravaggio’s San Giovanni Battista, Guido Reni’s Salome con la Testa di San Giovanni Battista and Fra Angelico’s Corsini Triptych.
Visiting tips: Tickets include entry to the national art collection at Palazzo Barberini. Entry is free on the first Sunday of the month.
This magnificent baroque fountain was completed in 1610 by architect Giovanni Fontana. It was built to commemorate the Aqua Paola aqueduct, which supplied water to the city. The fountain features a grand façade adorned with Corinthian columns and intricate sculptures. From its elevated position on Janiculum Hill, it offers one of the best panoramic views in the city.
Good to know: The fountain featured in the opening scene of Paolo Sorrentino's Oscar-winning film, La Grande Bellezza in 2013.
Visiting tips: Spend some time exploring nearby Parco del Gianicolo, where you'll find a botanic garden (see below) and a monument to Giuseppe Garibaldi, who defended Rome against French troops in 1849.
This picturesque Renaissance bridge connects Trastevere to the historic city centre across the Tiber River. Built in 1473 by Pope Sixtus IV, it features elegant arches and a pedestrian walkway, offering stunning views of the river and surrounding architecture. In the evenings, the bridge is bustling with students, musicians and street performers.
Trastevere's true charm lies in the quieter, tucked-away corners. Wander the backstreets to discover secret gardens, artisan workshops and local haunts that offer a more intimate experience of Rome.
Formerly the private grounds of Palazzo Corsini, this 12-hectare garden in Parco del Gianicolo offers a serene escape from the narrow streets of Trastevere. Run by La Sapienza (Rome's university), it houses over 3,000 species of plants, including bamboo groves, a greenhouse full of tropical plants, a monk-inspired medicinal garden and a Japanese garden with pretty waterfalls and gravel paths, perfect for a peaceful stroll.
Visiting tips: Take bus Line 23 or 280 to Ponte Sisto or tram Line 8 to Piazza G Belli. Guided tours, workshops and nature walks are available.
Tucked away on Janiculum Hill, this 15th-century church is famous for its Tempietto, a small, perfectly proportioned temple by Bramante, marking the traditional site of St Peter’s crucifixion. It was commissioned by Isabella of Spain and Ferdinand II, the king of Spain, who owned the church from 1481 to 1500. Inside are works by prominent masters from the 16th and 17th centuries.
For a taste of local life, head south from Piazza Sant Maria to the fresh food market in Piazza di San Cosimato. The market has been open since 900 and many of the vendors there today are descendants of the first vendors. It’s a great place to sample some local produce; ask for recommendations.
No visit to Trastevere is complete without indulging in its culinary delights. The neighbourhood is teeming with trattorias, hip cafés perfect for an aperitivo and gelaterias offering dozens of delicious flavours.
For authentic dining, this tucked-away trattoria offers Roman classics like carbonara, cacio e pepe and amatriciana. The ingredients are fresh, and the atmosphere is quintessentially Roman.
Visiting tip: Arrive early or be prepared to queue – this trattoria is a favourite among locals.
For those with a sweet tooth, Fior di Luna offers some of the best gelato in Rome. The organic, small-batch gelato is made from fresh, high-quality ingredients, with an array of seasonal flavours.
Insider tip: Be sure to try the pistachio gelato, which is made from Sicilian pistachios.
Trastevere offers some of the best shopping in Rome, offering an array of one-of-a-kind items that reflect the area's artisan tradition.
Carlo Cecchini sells traditional leather goods, while Pandora della Malva offers bespoke homemade jewelry. On Sundays, you might be able to pick up a bargain at Porta Portese flea market, but keep an eye out for pickpockets too. Antica Caciara Trasteverina has been selling cheese for over a century, from freshly made pecorino to creamy ricotta. Why not pick up some bread for a picnic along the nearby Tiber River?
Trastevere is easily accessible on foot from Rome city center, where Mercure Rome Colosseum Center and Sofitel Roma Villa Borghese make ideal bases for exploring. Alternatively, catch Tram 8 from Largo di Torre Argentina, which travels along Viale di Trastevere and concludes at Villa Doria Pamphilj. Tram 3 serves the southern end of Viale di Trastevere. If you're coming from Termini station, Bus H will take you directly to Viale di Trastevere, while Bus 780 departs from Piazza Venezia.
From its bustling restaurants and quaint cafés to its beautiful churches and grand palaces, it's well worth the effort to explore Trastevere. The area showcases a completely different side to the city, offering a chance to experience authentic local life.
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