Discover Cologne Carnival: A Vibrant Fusion of Festivity and Tradition

Crowds of painted partygoers fill the streets wearing bright costumes and singing songs. Sweets and flowers are thrown from a passing float as someone fills your glass with Kölsch beer and wishes you Kölle Alaaf. This is more than a party. This is Cologne Carnival.

Köln Karneval, Fastelovend: whatever you call it, it's a tradition baked into the heart of this vibrant city. Carnival has been celebrated in Cologne since the Middle Ages, combining traditional German solstice celebrations with Lent festivities to create the extravagant Cologne Carnival we know today. Inspired by Venetian masquerades, military dress, anti-war protests and hundreds of years of history, this eclectic celebration is a lively explosion of merriment, passion and culture, a love letter from Cologne to its people that they just can't wait to share.

On the 11th day of the 11th month, at 11:11am, the official Fifth Season of Cologne begins. Carnival runs from November 11th to mid-February every year, with traditional gatherings known as Sitzungen held throughout the winter, where people come together to watch live performances, drink, sing, dance and be merry. 

Carnival season culminates in February in six days of street parades, balls, parties and city-wide revelry known as the Crazy Days, which run from Carnival Thursday (the Thursday before the start of Christian Lent) to midnight on Ash Wednesday. Over this six-day party, restaurants, pubs, clubs and bars become impromptu festival venues as Cologne residents take to the streets and the whole city celebrates this spirited German tradition. 

Here are some of the best events to look out for.

The first day of the Crazy Days Carnival kicks off with Weiberfastnacht: Women's Day. Costumed revellers meet at the Alter Markt in Cologne's Old Town, where the Carnival is officially opened at 11:11am. Traditions include women known as jecken Wiever cutting men's ties, street performances and open-air plays, and Bützchen, the traditional 'little kiss' greeting of the festival. 

Carnival Friday is a mellower affair, with comedy shows and live performances in the evening. Carnival Weekend sees countless smaller parades by local schools and communities throughout the city, including the Ghost Parade, a spooky parade on Saturday evening that invites bystanders to participate if you come dressed in creepy fancy dress. Swing by Neumarkt on Saturday at 10:30am to share a traditional Frühschoppen, an early morning Kölsche beer, and enjoy the slightly quieter Carnival atmosphere of the weekend's festivities.

The highlight of the Cologne Carnival is the Rose Monday parade, an all-day procession through the streets of Cologne that welcomes over 1.5 million revellers every year to the largest street parade in Germany. On Rosenmontag, the entire city shuts down and lines the streets in colourful costumes of all shapes and sizes. The parade starts around 10am and continues for over four hours, as costumed performers, marching bands, and parade floats fill the streets, throwing flowers and kamelle (sweets) to festivalgoers along the route. After the parade, the party continues well into the night in the streets, restaurants, pubs and bars throughout the city.

Violet Tuesday marks the winding down of Carnival, culminating in Nubbelverbrennung, the burning of the Nubbel, large straw dolls that hang above bars and shops throughout the Crazy Days and that are burnt to represent cleansing all the wrongdoings of the festival. The torchlight procession, which ends in the Nubbelverbrennung, marks the ceremonial end of the Carnival, as Shrove Tuesday becomes Ash Wednesday, the start of Christian Lent.

Here's a taste of some of the iconic traditions you'll experience throughout the Crazy Days Carnival. 

From steam-punk pirates to Venetian masquerades, it doesn't matter what you wear as long as you're in costume. The most common colours to see are red and white stripes, which are the local Köln Football Club colours, and painted clown faces representing the festival's traditional Jaken (fools). Official Carnival societies dress in military-inspired uniforms, dating back to 1815 when Carnival goers wanted to mock the Prussian military presence. Whether you're a local or a tourist, costumes are a must, so grab some bright colours and a splash of face paint and join the costumed fun.

The Carnival season is officially presided over by the Dreigestirn, the three costumed members of Carnival Royalty. Part of the festival since the early 1800s, these characters open the Carnival season in November, declare the start of the Crazy Days, and participate in the parades alongside their Guards of Honour.

The Carnival Prince, known as Seine Tollität (His Madness) or Held Carneval (Hero Carnival), is the head of Carnival Royalty and is considered the personification of the Carnival. He traditionally wears a purple jacket and a crown of peacock feathers and carries a sceptre and a slapstick to represent the tomfoolery of the Carnival. He leads the parades throughout the week, joined by the Maiden, Jungfrau or Ihre Lieblichkeit (Her Loveliness), played by a man in women's dress, and the Peasant, Seine Deftigkeit, whose float is the last to close the main parade on Rose Monday. 

Another integral part of Carnival custom is the traditional Kölsch music you'll hear throughout the event. Carnival bands write new songs each year in the Kölsch dialect, and pamphlets are handed out to ensure everyone knows the words. Countless singalongs erupt in bars and streets as people join arms and sway to the music in traditional Schunkeln dancing style, but don't worry if you don't understand the lyrics; the upbeat, catchy tunes will have you dancing in no time.

Kölle Alaaf! is the customary Kölsch greeting of the Carnival season, loosely translated to "Cologne above all". It's a cheerful greeting heard throughout the Carnival, often shortened to simply "Alaaf", to which you respond "Alaaf". One important distinction to note is between "Alaaf" and "Helau", which is a similar festival greeting in Düsseldorf, but would be a cultural faux-pas if used as a greeting in Cologne. 

The primary drink in everyone's hand during Carnival is Kölsch beer, a strong beer originally from Cologne that has grown to represent the Carnival spirit. If you have an empty glass in your hand during the Carnival, expect it to be filled with Kölsch. PS: Enjoying Kölsch beer and other traditional delicacies during Cologne Carnival is part of the vibrant experience, but remember to drink responsibly and stay safe while celebrating.

Head to the Fischmarkt for some traditional German street food, such as currywurst, halve Hahn, rye bread with cheese, and mettbrötchen, a conventional German meat and bread open-style sandwich, all classic German delicacies that are easy to eat while walking around the Carnival.

Carnival brings millions of travellers to Cologne every year, so plan ahead and book your accommodation early.

You can watch from anywhere along the 6km parade route, but it’s best to arrive early to get a good spot. The most popular area is near the Cologne Cathedral, which gets very crowded. For a calmer atmosphere, head to the smaller streets along the route, such as Friesenplatz and Appellhofplatz. Some of the best viewing spots host private bandstands, where you can book tickets for a premium parade experience, often including seating, toilets, food and drinks.

Throughout the Carnival, you'll find parties and events on almost every street. You don't need to pre-book; simply wander around and see where takes your fancy. Alter Markt is known for lively brewhouses and bars, with the main party streets being Mauthgasse and Salzgasse. Zülpicher Straße is the student area near the university known for being particularly raucous and rowdy during Carnival.

The best place to stay to experience the Carnival is Old Town, with hotels such as Köln Am Dom or Hotel Mondial Am Dom only a few steps from the cathedral itself. The Belgian Quarter is full of trendy bars and buzzing nightlife, a great choice during Carnival, with hotels such as Koeln City Friesenstrasse and Pullman Cologne providing a perfect home base to explore the festivities. Deuz is just over the Rhine River and a quieter locale good for those travelling with small children, and the student district near Koeln Centrum can be a little cheaper for those on a budget. 

Cologne is conveniently located near multiple international airports: Cologne Bonn Airport (known as Flughafen Köln), Dusseldorf International and Frankfurt Airport. The city is well connected via high-speed trains to Berlin, Amsterdam, Hamburg, Denmark and the rest of Europe. The train station is right in the city centre and is the easiest way to get to and from the Carnival. Cologne has an excellent network of trams, subways and buses, making traversing the city a breeze. However, be aware that many streets are pedestrianized during the parades, so walking is the best way to get around during Carnival in Cologne.

Cologne Carnival is an extravagant experience well worth exploring, that combines years of culture into a week of celebrations and revelry. Discover the varied history of this vibrant city as you tour Cologne with the Carnival procession and take part in this truly unique event. Kölle Alaaf!