24 July 2024
4 minutes
Uniquely built on two levels to incorporate historic wharf cellars that now house waterfront shops and cafés, Utrecht’s canals are among the most beautiful in Europe.
24 July 2024
4 minutes
The Utrecht canals' history begins in the Middle Ages, when the city prospered as an important trade centre on the banks of the river Rhine. As the course of the main river shifted south, enterprising citizens dug out parts of the old river bed to create canals that would keep water (and trade) flowing through the city centre. And, while Amsterdam may be the Dutch city most famous for its canals, these Utrecht channels are uniquely charming thanks to their two-tier design. At street level, traditional canal houses grace the pavements. And below them, narrow staircases lead to a series of wharf cellars built at water level for storing trade goods.
Today the canals are the city’s defining feature, lending it an atmosphere of immersive tranquility or vibrancy – depending which canal you happen to be strolling along at the time. Utrecht has often been named the most beautiful canal city in Europe – quite an accolade on a continent that also includes Venice and Amsterdam. Perhaps these worthy cities are unable to compete with the added attraction of Utrecht’s unique wharf cellars, which, on Oudegracht canal at least, now house a slew of bustling restaurants and cafés, artisan workshops and vintage fashion boutiques. The other city centre canals (Nieuwegracht and Stadsbuitengracht) are more peaceful and stand out for their adjacent parks and historic houses.
Although the outskirts of the city and the surrounding area have many more canals, there are three main waterways in Utrecht’s historic centre. These are Oudegracht (Old Canal), Nieuwegracht (New Canal) and Stadsbuitengracht (City Outer Canal), and they are by far the most popular for visitors to explore. There are many ways to do so. Sign up for a canal cruise and guided audio tour with Rederij Schuttevaer, or if you feel like taking the helm yourself, opt for a canal boat rental through Slopedelen. You don’t need a skipper’s licence, and you can explore at your own pace.
In summer, standup paddleboard and kayak rentals also give you the freedom to hop from one wharf cellar café to another along Oudegracht, or to stop for a picnic whenever you please on the banks of the two calmer canals. Swimming is not recommended, due to the high level of boat traffic and possible pollutants. And as much as we love being on the water, being beside it is pretty great too. Hire a bike and set out on the canalside cycle paths, or undertake to walk the length of one or all of them at a pace that allows you to truly soak everything in. If exploring on foot appeals, discover the best things to look out for along the way with our route descriptions of the top 3 Utrecht canals.
As its name suggests, Oudegracht is the oldest of the city’s waterways. It’s also the canal that goes through Utrecht city centre, connecting the original moat to the south with the Vecht river in the north. It was constructed in the 12th century to keep water flowing through the city centre when the main flow of the Rhine (the lifeblood of the medieval trading hub) diverted south. Today, Oudegracht is arguably the most visually impressive canal in Utrecht, flanked by centuries-old canal houses with their façades often painted in contrasting colours. It’s also the liveliest canal, with most of its traditional wharf cellars converted into independent restaurants, bars, cafés and shops.
You can walk the length of the canal (a distance of two kilometres), dipping down to wharf level whenever one of the businesses that flourish there catches your eye. Perhaps the most famous Utrecht canal restaurant of all is located on Oudegracht: Winkel van Sinkel, a grand café by day and a bar with a dance floor and themed music by night. This legendary venue is housed in a neoclassical building that once served as Holland’s first shopping arcade. Other landmarks to look out for include Gothic Dom Tower, the tallest church spire in the Netherlands; and Utrecht City Hall, whose architecture is a visual tour through Utrecht history.
Good to Know
Insider tip: At the convergence of the Oudegracht and Stadsbuitengracht canals, look out for peaceful Nijntjepleintje (Miffy Square), where a statue of Dick Bruna’s famous picture book rabbit is sure to delight children and adults alike.
Although the name Nieuwegracht means “New Canal”, the shortest of the city's canals still dates back to the late 14th century. It runs roughly parallel to Oudegracht, but comes to an abrupt halt when it meets the Trans road. Nieuwegracht has the same wharf cellars as its sibling canal but hardly any of them are occupied. Instead, this canal is a haven of serenity in the heart of the historic city centre, with tall and slender canal houses standing sentinel along its banks and plenty of shade cast by centuries-old trees. The route is roughly 0.7 kilometres one way, making it ideal for all fitness levels.
We love exploring this canal at sunset, when the lights from the surrounding buildings reflect beautifully across its still surface. If you walk from north to south, you could finish your adventure with a spot of stargazing at the 19th-century Sonnenborgh Museum & Observatory (which also offers fascinating exhibitions on astronomy and meteorology during daylight hours). If you walk south to north, you’ll finish at Pausdam, where the Paushuize (Papal House) and University Buildings are illuminated each evening as part of the Utrecht Lumen light shows. Look out for the white dove and barn owl projected above the doors of each landmark respectively.
Good to Know
Insider tip: The Paushuize was built in 1517 by Adrianus VI, history’s only Dutch pope. Its beautiful interiors, furniture and artwork reflect its past as the official residence of the Governor of Utrecht, and can be viewed on a free tour held on the last Sunday of every month from 11 to 11:45am.
Although it was also built in the 12th century, Stadsbuitengracht’s purpose was a little different to that of Oudegracht, which was primarily meant as a trade artery. This canal, whose name means “City Outer Canal”, encircles the historic centre and was intended as a moat-like defence for the fortified city. In 1968 the circle was interrupted by the decision to fill in a section of the canal to create a highway; however, this section (known as Catharijnesingel) was restored to canal status in 2020 and so it is now possible to circumnavigate the city once again – whether by boat or on foot. Of interest for boaters and those with an engineering mind is the Weerdsluis, a great lock that connects Stadsbuitengracht to the Vecht river in the north.
Other highlights of this 5.5-kilometre circuit include Zocherpark, one of the oldest public parks in the Netherlands. This mighty green space stretches along much of the canal’s length and is recognised as a national monument for its gorgeous trees, some of which are hundreds of years old. There’s also the Centraal Museum with highlights including the 1,000-year-old Utrecht Ship and the studio of famous local artist, Dick Bruna. Bruna’s most iconic creation is celebrated in her own right at the canalside Nijntje Museum, where Miffy’s world has been lovingly recreated as an interactive wonderland for children.
Good to Know
The answer to the question “How do the Utrecht canals contribute to the city’s cultural heritage?” is: immeasurably. They sustained the city when the divergence of the Rhine threatened its prosperity in the Middle Ages. And, while steeped in history, they’re also the foundation for a new cultural identity based on waterfront recreation and relaxation. For an affordable hotel located within an easy 15-minute cycle of the city centre canals and all that they offer, we recommend ibis Utrecht.
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