Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin: Everything You Need to Know

Checkpoint Charlie in Berlin epitomises the Cold War, because the former crossing point between East and West Germany symbolises not only division but the tension, plotting and downright strangeness of this period in history. Discover why these two simple words evoke such a sense of intrigue.

When Germany was divided into East and West after World War II by the Allies, who each wanted their share of control, the city of Berlin was also divided. The East suffered a "brain drain" with many of their most highly trained people fleeing to the West, so in 1961 the authorities achieved their aim of having the Berlin Wall constructed. Foreigners could still move from West to East quite easily, but moving in the opposite direction was almost impossible for most people. Those who were able to move between the two did so through checkpoints built along the wall, and Checkpoint Charlie remains the most famous of these. 

This border crossing was the designated crossing point for tourists, diplomats and Allied personnel. It was operated by the Allies, which is why you'll notice American flags and "US Army Checkpoint" still visible at the location. "Charlie" simply comes from the word assigned to the letter C in the NATO phonetic alphabet, and the crossing point was officially known as "Checkpoint C." It was one of three border crossings operated by the Allies in Berlin, the others being Helmstedt-Marienborn (Alpha) and Dreilinden-Drewitz (Bravo).

The crossing became a flashpoint for tensions and was the scene of a major stand-off between Allied and Soviet tanks in 1961, after the Allies became concerned that their personnel were not being given the freedom of movement they had been promised. Fortunately, leaders on both sides were able to keep clear heads and calm the crisis before it escalated into conflict.

Crossing from West to East was part of daily life for some, like the foreign correspondent who had what he thought were friendly chats with East German border guards he saw each day at the next checkpoint near Charlie, about his vacations or theatre visits. It was years later when he saw records of East German security services that he realised every conversation had been recorded. Locals who lived near the checkpoint would observe quirky goings-on, such as the Sicilian man who carried a barrel-organ freely across the border and seemed to come and go as he pleased. 

It's still possible to visit the location at the corner of Friedrichstraße and Zimmerstraße, where you'll see plenty of indications of what the Cold War site was like. There's a smaller replica of the original guardhouse booth that was removed in 1990 (the original booth is displayed in the Allied Museum in Berlin-Zehlendorf). You'll also see sandbags and an American flag, as well as a large photo of U.S. Army Sergeant Jeff Harper, who played the tuba for departing troops after the wall fell. The photo is part of a series taken in 1994 to document the last Allied troops in Berlin. 

Good to know: If you're wondering how much it costs to visit Checkpoint Charlie, you'll be happy to know it's free to take a look at the replica booth and take photos at the site of the former checkpoint

Checkpoint Charlie address: Friedrichstraße 43-45

Open: Accessible 24/7

Nearest station: Kochstraße U-Bahn

Right next to Checkpoint Charlie is Mauermuseum - Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie, which documents the many escape attempts that people in East Germany used to get to the other side of the Berlin Wall. Don't miss the handmade hot-air balloon among the things on display, which incredibly was used to transport two families safely to the West. Sections of the Berlin Wall are also exhibited, as is an original border sign from Checkpoint Charlie. Even the museum's origins are fascinating, as the collection documenting escape attempts began in a small flat in 1962, just a year after the wall was built. The Cold War Museum is also just across the street on the opposite side of Zimmerstraße.

Good to know: The Mauermuseum is a partner of Berlin WelcomeCard, which offers discounts at more than 180 attractions across the city as well as free travel on public transport

Mauermuseum address: Friedrichstrasse 43 - 45, 10969 Berlin

Open: Daily from 10 am to 8 pm

Nearest station: Kochstraße U-Bahn

*note that Mauermuseum means "Wall Museum" in German but should not be confused with the Wall Museum at the East Side Gallery

The location is seen as a symbol of the strange tensions that existed throughout the Cold War, and many people are also intrigued by the creative ways that East German citizens tried to gain freedom by escaping to the West. In 1963 an Austrian man, Heinz Meixner, was so obsessed with smuggling out his fiancée that he removed the windscreen and deflated the tires on a convertible car, making it as low to the ground as possible, then ducked his head and drove at speed under the Checkpoint Charlie barrier, his fiancée squashed down between the seats. The border post has also been prominent in popular culture, particularly in spy novels and movies. In The Spy Who Came in from the Cold (1965), the movie based on the John le Carré novel, the crossing point features in the opening scene, and James Bond has also been depicted passing through.

Today the boulevard is one of the most famous shopping areas in the city. Friedrichstraße is a major street in the city, and it has a storied history. Up until World War II, it was home to a buzzing, infamous entertainment district with packed bars, music halls and theatres. The neighbourhood was badly damaged during the war, and the section in the West was partly rebuilt as residential housing during the Cold War. Redevelopment took off hugely after reunification. Today the boulevard has some of the best shopping in Berlin, and is often compared to the Champs-Élysées in Paris or Oxford Street in London. Checkpoint Charlie, vast street art at the southern end near Theodor-Wolff-Park, and the diverse mix of people zipping up and down the thoroughfare day and night give it an eclectic appeal.

To experience Friedrichstraße and the checkpoint as soon as you step out of your hotel, book a room at Mercure Hotel & Residenz Berlin Checkpoint Charlie. 

The wall directly around the checkpoint was removed like much of the barrier, however the Topography of Terror museum is only five minutes' walk from Checkpoint Charlie and has a 200-metre-long section of the original wall on the grounds. The longest remaining section of the wall is at the East Side Gallery, a 7-minute drive away or around 30 minutes by public transport from Charlie. There are plenty of guided tours offered in Berlin, such as those provided by Original Berlin Walks, with knowledgeable guides who will explain the more obscure details of sights like the Berlin Wall and Checkpoint Charlie, as well as guiding you on foot or by bicycle to sites where sections of the wall still stand.

Topography of Terror address: Niederkirchnerstraße 8, 10963 Berlin

Open: Daily from 10 am to 8 pm

Nearest station: Anhalter S-Bahn or Kochstraße U-Bahn

If you're looking for a quick pit stop for nutritious refuelling, drop into Soupkultur at Markgrafenstraße 22 a couple of blocks from Checkpoint Charlie for soup, pasta or rice dishes. There are also tapas and Japanese restaurants within a 2-minute walk, including BarceLona Tapas Bar Restaurant at Friedrichstraße 211 and Ishin at Charlottenstraße 16, which specialises in sushi. For an authentic experience of German cuisine, take a 6-minute stroll to Maximilians Berlin, a convivial Bavarian-style tavern located at Friedrichstraße 185-190.

Don't miss Checkpoint Charlie on your adventure in Berlin!