24 July 2024
6 minutes
For shopping opportunities beyond department stores and chic boutiques, head to the best flea markets in Paris to seek out vintage fashions, hidden gems and endless antiques.
24 July 2024
6 minutes
A visit to a flea market in Paris makes for a wonderful day out and an insight into life in the French capital. The majority of flea markets continue to sell mostly antiques, bric-a-brac and vintage goods, so you can browse for bargains without having to break the bank. Although the precise origins of flea markets are uncertain, it is thought that they date from the mid-19th century. A street market location in Paris specialising in second-hand furniture became known as the “marché aux puces”, which literally translates as “flea market”. This was reputedly because some of the items on sale were infested with the irritating insects. Today, one thing is certain, a visit to the best flea markets in Paris is not to be missed. Here are five of our favourites.
The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is without doubt the biggest and most famous flea market in Paris. Having been established in the mid to late 19th century, it's also the oldest in France. Situated in the outskirts near the Boulevard Périphérique ring road, the "Puces" is actually located in the town of Saint-Ouen where it was founded when the rag-and-bone men who scoured through Paris rubbish for salvageable items were expelled from the city on health grounds. They set up for business outside the city walls and the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen was born. The market’s first permanent structures were built after the First World War, and since then the market has continued to grow and develop.
Today the flea market covers a vast expanse in the 18th arrondissement of Paris and the neighbouring northern suburb of Saint-Ouen. Within a series of enclosed developments, some partly or wholly covered and others with open-air streets lined with individual shops for antique dealers, it actually encompasses 15 distinct markets. Popular with locals and visitors alike, drawn by the potential treasures on offer, the markets of the Puces Saint-Ouen are literally overflowing with antiques, curios and objets d’art. Wear comfortable shoes and be prepared to get lost for a couple of hours as you wander in and out of countless stalls and alleyways. You can browse a bewildering array of items, from 18th-century furniture, antique mirrors, paintings, prints and lamps to musical instruments, vintage clothes, vinyl records, books, jewellery and memorabilia.
As the Puces Saint-Ouen covers such as large area, a good way to start on your first visit is to head straight to Rue des Rosiers, which is home to many of the different markets. From there you can start to discover and explore the various indoor and outdoor market spaces that are hidden from the street.
Housed in an enormous glass-roofed hall that opened on the Rue des Rosiers in 1991, the Dauphine Market is the largest covered market in the Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen. On the ground floor, dozens of antique dealers offer fine quality furniture, paintings, sculptures, textiles and curios dating from as far back as the 18th century. Upstairs, you can soak up the Parisian vibe while browsing numerous quirky outlets hung with artworks and piled high with Americana, vintage clothing, books, pop culture artefacts, toys and comics. There are sections devoted to second-hand books, vinyl records and vintage hi-fi equipment, while an exhibition space, the Galerie Dauphine, hosts temporary exhibitions. And don't miss the flying saucer-style, late 1960s prefabricated house, “Maison Futuro”, designed by Finnish architect Matti Suuronen. Recharge your batteries with a coffee or a bite to eat in the market’s coffee shop or bistro.
A couple of minutes' walk further along Rue des Rosiers from the Dauphine Market takes you to the Paul Bert Serpette market at the heart of the Saint-Ouen Flea Market. A highlight of the largest antiques market in the world, Paul Bert Serpette brings together up to 220 small shops and booths lining seven alleyways with a further 120 housed indoors in a former automobile garage. The traders here specialise in high-end antiques, interior decoration and home furnishings – often with prices to match! The hundreds of stalls will tempt you with fine pieces of 18th-, 19th- and 20th-century furniture, from Napoleon III style to mid-century modern, Art Deco and 1970s collectables. Further museum-quality pieces on offer range from lighting, mirrors and picture frames to vintage fabrics, fashions, silverware and jewellery. Some of the most fascinating items for sale include archaeological antiquities and 17th-century books and maps.
Les Puces de Montreuil is one of the relatively small flea markets in Paris in comparison to the gargantuan proportions of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen. The Montreuil Flea Market is situated similarly near the Boulevard Périphérique ring road, but to the east of the city centre, close to Porte de Montreuil metro station. Having been held on Avenue du Professor André Lemierre since 1860 when traders took over the spaces there on fortifications that had been vacated by soldiers, the Marché de Montreuil is one of the oldest flea markets in Paris. The original traders here sold used fabric and garments, while today the Puces de Montreuil is one of the best flea markets in Paris for clothes. An abundance of second-hand garments ranging from vintage jeans to army surplus clothing is on offer at stalls piled high with old, worn or potentially antique items – you just need to sift through it all in search of hidden gems.
Around 500 stalls in all offer a vast array of goods ranging from furniture, carpets, glassware, tools and crockery to watches, jewellery and bric-a-brac. There are plenty of bargains to be found and if you speak at least a little French, don’t be afraid to haggle – the traders expect it. Follow up your flea market trip with a visit to the hip JO&JOE Paris Nation Restaurant nearby to enjoy sharing platters, gourmet pizza and cocktails in laid-back rooftop surroundings.
Occupying two pleasant avenues in the 14th arrondissement of Paris each weekend, the Porte de Vanves Flea Market is definitely worth taking a trip to the south of the city for. Staying true to the original spirit of “Les Puces”, dealers set up for business along the pavement underneath the trees lining Avenue Marc Sangnier and Avenue Georges Lafenestre. Around 350 stalls in all offer a consistently fascinating array of quality items and curiosities at attractive prices. Traders’ best finds of the week may range from furniture, paintings, prints and fabrics to chandeliers, sculptures and lamps. Savour the laid-back atmosphere as you browse rails of Chanel scarves and vintage fashions, rummage through boxes of toy cars, books and coins, and search among tables of cameras, accordions and collectable bric-a-brac.
Crowds of locals and visitors start to appear at the market around 9am and the best stuff tends to go quickly, so the sooner you can arrive after 7am the better. Give yourself the best chance of finding a genuine treasure by skipping breakfast in your Paris hotel and grabbing coffee and a fresh croissant from one of the food carts when you arrive. And be sure to bring cash with you as the traders here don't accept card payments.
In the eastern Paris neighbourhood of Faubourg Saint-Antoine, the Rue d'Aligre Flea Market shares the Place d’Aligre with a large open-air fruit and vegetable market as well as the historic indoor produce market, Marché d'Aligre. Open daily except for Monday, the flea market’s 40 professional traders offer an eclectic selection of goods from stalls at one end of the square. Expect to find glassware, ceramics, crockery, silverware and cutlery, as well as household goods, curios and a mixture of new and used clothes. You may have to dig around to find the good stuff, so roll up your sleeves and rummage through the traders’ boxes in search of hidden gems. Most are keen to do business and are willing to negotiate on prices. When you find something you might like, grab it and hang on to it unless you’re certain you don’t want it – you may be competing with dealers searching for items to resell, especially if it's early on a Saturday or Sunday.
A wonderful flea market for book lovers, the long-established Georges Brassens Book Market takes place every weekend in covered 19th-century market halls that open onto leafy Georges Brassens Park in the south-west of the city. Dozens of booksellers stall out offering antique and second-hand books and maps, as well as postcards, DVDs and memorabilia. Enjoy the peaceful ambience as you for browse for old and out-of-print editions, some dating from as far back as the 18th century. Books are mostly in French but some in other languages are also on sale, alongside comics, posters and contemporary illustrated books. Once you’ve made your purchases, enjoy a walk in the park’s rose gardens before strolling over to the Novotel Paris Vaugirard Montparnasse to treat yourself to mouthwatering Italian cuisine at the Quindici Trattoria.
The Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen is definitely the largest and probably the most famous.
Most Paris flea markets are open on Saturday and Sunday, but some are also open on weekdays. Always check before travelling and find out what time the market you are planning to visit opens. The earlier you arrive the better your chances are of finding the best items.
Smaller flea markets in the city require more effort in order to find the most desirable pieces, but also offer the most attractive prices. At Les Puces de Saint-Ouen prices tend to be higher, especially for antiques.
Especially at smaller markets, prices can usually be negotiated. If you're certain you will only pay a reduced price for an item, be prepared to walk away. However, if you think you've just found the Hermès bag you’ve always wanted at a great price then maybe don’t test your haggling skills.
Although traders at indoor markets and some outdoor vendors usually accept card payments, others only accept cash. It’s wise to carry a credit card as well as Euros in banknotes.
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