Contemporary Chic meets Local Charm at Mercure Paignton Hotel

We emerge from Paignton station into a mild, sunny British summer’s day. Our train from London Paddington has whisked us from a gritty urban metropolis through the dreamy landscapes of the West Country, past rolling hills and patchworks of fields dotted with sheep. And now, a five-minute stroll towards the seafront takes us to our destination, the Mercure Paignton Hotel. Why here? We’d wanted somewhere contemporary yet plugged into the local vibe, stylish but still budget-friendly. On first impressions, this ticks all those boxes. The low-rise building, in sandy hues with large glass windows, blends seamlessly into its enviable waterfront location. Hikers, dog walkers and families mingle on the coastal path, and quaint Paignton Pier is right there. A deep breath of the sea scent – that heady mix of warm pebbles, salty spray and sunscreen – and our shoulders are already relaxing. We can’t wait to see what’s inside.

The lobby is bright and airy, conveying both the promise of a comfortable stay and exciting adventures. We love how Devon’s seaside charm has been woven into the design, from the nostalgic blue-and-white floor tiles to the slatted wood panelling accenting the walls and reception desk. A charming seating area, with vintage-style armchairs and seagull-shaped lamps, catches our eye, and we can’t resist a selfie. Leafy potted plants add to the natural charm of the space, while the faint soundtrack of ambient music calms and soothes. The vibe is easygoing, with families relaxing on the peach-hued sofas, chatter from a work meeting coming from the adjacent dining area and a fluffy dog trotting past, its human in tow. (Pets are welcome here.) We get the impression that everything runs smoothly here, but at a gentle, unhurried pace that our chaotic city soul absolutely needs.

There’s a lovely sense of flow from the main reception area through to the restaurant and bar. We wander through, weaving amid plush banquettes in a vibrant sapphire blue and cool grey-and-white marble tabletops. Touches of gold and bronze add to the feel of timeless elegance… but hang on, is that cake? We’re momentarily distracted by the large and generously iced carrot and walnut cake on display at the bar. There’s a different cake every day, we’re told, depending on the chef’s mood, but it’s always a classic British treat and extremely popular with guests and locals alike. We make a mental note to pop by later for a slice and a cup of tea – on the terrace perhaps, which has its doors open on this lovely day, or even in one of the comfy seating areas in the lobby. Right now, we’re keen to deposit our bags in our room and see what else Paignton has to offer.

The bed’s immaculately made, in crisp white with whimsical teal cushions and a chic indigo throw. We notice, again, the enduring colour combination of glamorous gold punctuating classic blue, creating a sense of cosy opulence. Against the subtly striped wallpaper hangs a striking landscape painting by local artist Emma Carter Bromfield, whose works, we learn later, decorate much of the hotel. And to top it all off? The views of the endless blue-grey sea, framed by the enormous picture windows. Cradling a warm cup of coffee, we sink into the velvety soft armchair and gaze out for a few quiet minutes. Only the thought of an apéritif can tear us away from this idyllic sight, and after a quick refresh in the spacious walk-in shower, we’re heading back down to the bar.

There’s definitely a buzzier feel in the restaurant and bar compared to earlier in the day. The laptops and cups of coffee have been tidied away, replaced by sharing plates and cocktails. We perch on a barstool and ask for the cocktail of the week. As we’re sipping a deliciously frothy concoction, the bartender shares a little-known fact: not only does this corner of England produce Devon Rum and Torbay Gin, but there’s an award-winning vineyard in Totnes, less than five miles from the hotel. Sandridge Barton is famed for its white Dart Valley Reserve, which we decide to pair with our dinner as we make our way to the terrace.

There's just one little problem. We’re dithering over what to order because everything sounds delicious. Fish and seafood, mostly sourced locally from nearby towns like Brixham, dominate the menu. But should we try the beetroot and goat's cheese or go for classic pan-fried scallops? The sea bream with capers or the pork tenderloin with a black pudding terrine? Eventually, greedily, we settle for one of each, plus the tiger prawn tagliatelle, promising ourselves we’ll burn it off on the hiking trails tomorrow. The local wine, crisp and subtly fruity, goes beautifully with the fresh seafood, and the passionfruit and lemon posset is a perfect, palate-cleansing finish to the evening.

There’s plenty to do in Paignton, and helpfully, there’s a large screen in the reception area displaying the options. We notice families heading for Paignton Zoo and Splashdown Waterpark. Other guests are planning cultural excursions, to the Dartmouth Steam Railway and then further up the coast to 12th-century Torre Abbey in Torquay. There’s even someone who’s off to the vineyard for a tour and guided tasting, lucky them. We decide on a kayaking tour of Babbacombe Bay, which, thanks to very knowledgeable guides and a hot chocolate stop in one of the coves, we thoroughly enjoy. Later, we follow the South West coastal path from Torquay Marina back to Paignton, an easy waterfront hike with craggy beach views. After a bit of retro fun at the arcade on the pier, we return to the sanctuary of our hotel for a rest – we need to recharge so that we can check out the area's live music venues later tonight!

Is there anything more quintessentially British than afternoon tea? Sometimes it can be an intimidatingly stuffy affair – but here, it’s relaxed and fun while still being utterly indulgent, with a different theme each month depending on what's trending. The three-tier stand is delicately arranged with all manner of delights: sandwiches filled with West Country ham or Devon Cheddar; dainty cakes, including Victoria sponge and lemon drizzle; and freshly baked scones. In case, like us, you’re wondering, in Devon the cream goes on the scone first, followed by a generous dollop of jam. Prefer a less-filling afternoon treat? Order a cream tea instead, which comes with two scones plus tea or coffee.

• Travellers in search of an authentic Devon experience.
• Families seeking a convenient base for a seaside holiday.
• Couples wanting a romantic haven with spectacular sea views.
• Epicureans eager to discover the finest seasonal Devonshire food and drink.
• Business travellers who appreciate contemporary style.
• Adventure seekers needing a luxury stop on the South West coastal path.
• Pet parents on a walking holiday.
  

1. The welcoming vibe. From the moment you walk in, the staff are so friendly and helpful to you, your kids and your pets, you know you're in good hands.
2. The seasonal cuisine. They celebrate the best local products of each season here with special menus and themed events, so every visit is a delightful surprise. And don't forget, there's always cake.
3. The comfy bed. It's not just any bed, it's a Great Bed, specially designed for Mercure hotels. Just what you want to fall into after your day's adventures.
4. The convenient location. Within walking distance of the train station, the beach and the coastal path, this hotel is exceptionally placed for a seaside holiday.
5. The spectacular views. There are few things more special in life than waking up to utterly gorgeous vistas of the Devonshire coast.

Esplanade Road, Paignton, Devon TQ4 6BQ England