Introducing Le Marais Paris
When Paris was redesigned in the 19th century, not every neighborhood was granted wide new boulevards and elegant Art Nouveau apartment blocks. Pockets of the old Paris - the Paris of winding alleyways, unexpected churches, and tight-knit communities - remained. Le Marais (or "the Marsh" in English) is the best preserved of all. Stepping into Le Marais Paris is like wandering onto the set of a historical movie. As you venture from the hustle and bustle of Les Halles, or the crystalline purity of the Île de la Cité, it certainly feels like you are entering another world.
For many years, Le Marais was an aristocratic refuge, with the great French families setting up mansions around the Place des Vosges, but it was never monpolised by the rich, and became home to vibrant migrant communities, the largest French Jewish community, and more recently LGBTQ arrivals. The result is an area like no other, and a beguiling place to spend some time.
How to Get There
Getting to Le Marais Paris is simple. The area is just south-east of Les Halles, on the north bank of the Seine. It stretches roughly from the République Métro station in the north, to the Place de la Bastille in the east, and the Centre Pompidou in the west, with the river marking its southern fringe. In terms of arrondissements, it spans parts of the 3rd and 4th.
This means that there are a range of Le Marais Paris Métro stations within the district. Aside from République, you can get off at Rambuteau and wander through the neighborhood from north to south, emerge by the Seine at Sully-Morland or alight at the most central stop of all - Saint Paul, at the very heart of Le Marais Paris.
For those who are driving in central Paris, there are a few parking lots in the area on the Rue du Temple and the Rue Barbette. But the best way to approach the area is on foot so that you can really appreciate how the streets begin to narrow and change, and the atmosphere takes on an aura of magic.
A Quick History of this Place
This magic is the product of a rich history, and one which sets Le Marais apart from the rest of the city in a number of ways. Firstly, there was the influx of noble families after Henri IV constructed the Place Royale in the 17th century. Designed to serve as a place for nobles to gather, and a way to keep them under royal control, it quickly became the place to own a town house.
Things changed totally when the Revolution arrived in 1789. The nobles moved out, by and large, and others moved in, including a large Jewish community. At the same time, Le Marais Paris took on a more commercial aspect, with clothing and food to the fore, and it's never lost this mercantile focus.
What it could have lost were some of its architectural jewels, which began to decay during the 19th and 20th centuries. But luckily that didn't happen, thanks to the efforts of the French state, who began to regenerate Le Marais Paris from the 1950s onwards. Beautiful facades began to reappear from a makeup of grime; museums were opened, drawing massive crowds, and the Centre Pompidou sparked a local artistic renaissance.
Today, Le Marais is Paris' number one artistic neighborhood, a magnet for museum fans, a gastronomic paradise, and crammed with clothing boutiques. In a way, it's come full circle from the eviction of the aristocracy, becoming one of the classiest, most exciting parts of the modern metropolis.
Some Key Streets in the Neighborhood
To help you orientate yourself when you visit Le Marais Paris, it's probably helpful to get to know some of the area's most important streets, alleys, and squares. That way, when you see their signs, you'll know you're on the right track. Remember, there's no grid here, so navigation takes some skill and memory.
The Place des Vosges in the south-east is the key square and is the site of the Maison de Victor Hugo, while being close to the Bastille, and the Carnavalet Museum. The Rue de Turenne runs north from Vosges, towards the Picasso Museum, while the Rue des Francs Bourgeois is the main fashion shopping drag, and cuts across Le Marais towards the Centre Pompidou.
The Rue des Rosiers is another key street, as it runs through the Jewish Quarter, while the Rue de Rivoli runs along the southern edge of the neighborhood, and is a good way to enter Le Marais Paris if you are coming from Hotel de Ville Métro. But, if you're unsure, make a point of picking up a map. Most hotels will happily provide them, so don't be afraid to ask.
Immerse Yourself in Art
When you've got your map in hand, or you've loaded up Google, it's time to start exploring, and why not begin by delving into the artistic treasures of Le Marais Paris? Art is one of the area's great passions, which is why it was chosen as the venue for the magnificent Musée Picasso. Located on the rue de Thorigny, this museum contains a huge collection of the Spanish master's works. Built up from inheritances left to the French state, it contains plenty of highlights such as Little Girl in a Red Dress, which was painted when Picasso was just 14, or the remarkably abstract portrait The Large Nude in a Red Armchair from 1929.
When you've had your fill of Pablo's work, the logical next stop is the Pompidou. Although it's not strictly in Le Marais, it's right next door, and houses a world-class contemporary art collection. Alternatively, you could try le Village Saint Paul. Tucked away in the alleys of the area, this once derelict square is now packed with artists' galleries and antique dealers.
Walk in the Footsteps of Literary Legends
While art has flowered in the twisting streets and garrets of Le Marais, the cultural contributions of the neighborhood go well beyond painting and sculpture. It has also been the residence of and inspiration for writers, and has some stellar literary attractions. The biggest of all is probably the Maison de Victor Hugo, near the Place des Vosges. Hugo is one of the classic Parisian authors, having penned the Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables, and this restored house was where he labored from 1832 to 1848, when he had to leave due to participation in revolutionary activities.
However, there are some famous spots relating to drama and film in Le Marais Paris, as well. The Café de la Gare is a must-see for theater fans. One of the most dynamic cultural centers in 1960s Paris, it was where stars like Gerard Depardieu cut their teeth, while musicians like Jacques Brel made it their regular hangout. It's a great symbol of the bohemian heart of Le Marais and still has a creative buzz.
Get a Handle on History at the Musée Carnavalet
However, when you're wandering around taking in the sights of Le Marais Paris, it can sometimes all seem a bit overwhelming. Even if you have a guide book in your hands, the names and stories can start to overlap and become a little fuzzy. That's where the Musée Carnavalet comes in handy.
This outstanding museum on the rue de Sévigne has been telling the story of Paris since 1880, and continues to do so in absorbing ways. If you need to know the Marais district inside out, this museum will put everything into context, explaining how the Bastille came to fall, and why the nobles flocked to the Place Royale. With excellent collections dealing with ancient Lutetia (as the Romans called the city), and a piece-by-piece reconstruction of the salon in which Marcel Proust composed his masterpieces, it's a museum that dives head first into its subject matter and provides a treasure trove of information.
Shopping Opportunities: a place for fashion lovers
Then again, not everyone heads to Le Marais Paris for a history or cultural lesson. Over the centuries, people have been much more likely to visit for more down to earth reasons - to get a quality bite to eat, to pick up some antiques, or to peruse the latest designs. And you can still do all of those things in style.
The choices for shoppers could fill a book. If you're into designer furniture, Fleux is like Ikea on steroids. Fans of boutique men's clothing could pop their heads into Les Vignoles. Vintage Bar has all of the 60s and 70s creations fashionistas could desire, while Florian Denicourt is an accessories master, creating sumptuous leather goods. Those are just a few suggestions, but the streets of Le Marais Paris are packed with stores, and new pop-ups or street stalls appear all the time. The watchword has to be: explore, explore, and explore a bit more. You're sure to come out of the neighborhood with items you adore.
Paris' Best Gardens are Never Far Away
And when you've had enough of hunting for dazzling dresses, scents or handbags - what do you do? Well, in Le Marais Paris you've got plenty of options, but one of the best is also the simplest: find a park or square, pick up a book, or just have a doze in beautiful surroundings. That's because Le Marais is an oasis of lovingly tended gardens, which appear as if out of nowhere as you wander. There's the Jardin Albert Schweitzer in the northern Marais, which is always popular with locals, the Jardin Anne Frank, which pays tribute to the Dutch holocaust victim, and the gardens of the Hôtel de Sens, which are as classically French as gardens can be.
Visit the Site of the Bastille Prison
But after recharging your batteries, it's on with the tour. There's always more to see in this corner of Paris, and you won't be happy if you miss something special. For example, there's the site of the Bastille Prison. In a secular nation like France, the Place de la Bastille is as close as the country gets to a holy place. For centuries, it was the site of a notoriously brutal prison, which housed the critics of the absolute monarchy. On 14 July 1789, the revolutionaries "stormed" the jail, and within a year, it had been pulled to the ground. So the prison has gone, but it's not forgotten. The whole area serves as a national shrine to progress, from the July Column (which actually remembers a later revolution against the crown), to the modernist Bastille Opera, symbolically opened in 1989, 200 years after the prison closed.
Experience Paris' Jewish Side
After you've taken in the Place de la Bastille, it's surely time to dive back into the depths of Le Marais to uncover Paris' Jewish history. Jewish Parisians have lived in the area since the 13th century, and they still do so. To get to know the Jewish population, you'll have to enter the "Pletzl", as the area is known in Yiddish. Nowadays, if you head to the Place Saint-Paul, it more or less corresponds to the start of the Pletzl, and radiates along the Rue des Rosiers, and the Rue Pavée.
There are plenty of gems to be found, so take your time. There's the Agudath Hakehilot synagogue, which was blown up by the Nazis, then defiantly rebuilt. There's the Museum of Jewish Art and History on Rue de Temple. And then there's food. The Pletzl is the place to head for first-class Middle Eastern cuisine. Don't miss the kosher delicacies at L'As du Fallafel - its sandwiches are out of this world.
Tour some Gorgeous Churches
Christianity also plays a big part in making Le Marais as special as it is, and the area is studded with exceptional churches. After seeing Notre Dame on the Île de la Cité, churches like the Jesuit Eglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis are a complete change of scene, with Baroque features instead of austere Gothic ones. The St-Gervais-et-St-Protais near the Hotel de Ville is similarly sublime, with its own Baroque flourishes and beautiful stained-glass windows, and an organ that has been graced by France's finest players (and still rings out for visitors today, so be there for a performance if you can).
Where to Dine in Le Marais
However, religion isn't as dominant as it once was in Le Marais. Nowadays, it's all about pleasure. It's an area where pleasures of the senses take center stage, and dining is chief among them. We've already mentioned the kosher delights of L'As du Fallafel, but if you want some uncomplicated, delicious food, the Marché des Enfants Rouges is also a must-visit. In business since 1628, this covered market doubles up as a place to buy produce and a host for smaller hot food vendors. So leave some space in your belly before visiting.
As far as sit-down meals go, Le Marais Paris is right up there among Paris' finest neighborhoods. From decidedly upmarket places like Benoit, to down to earth Breton crêperies, bistros selling rustic classics, and astounding Asian-fusion eateries, you're sure to stumble upon outstanding eats.
Some of the Hottest Nightspots in the Capital
Along with fine dining and street food, Le Marais has also blossomed as one of Paris' most dynamic nightlife destinations. So, after you've pounded the streets all day and gazed at every Picasso, why not start exploring the bars and clubs that give the quarter its bohemian feel? You may well be surprised by what's on offer. For instance, you won't find better caipirinhas than the ones at Wake Up Paris, and the packed-but-party-ready vibe of Le Piment is just what revelers need to get in the mood. You can pick up a swift, cheap beer at L'Art Brut, and end up - ready to dance the night away - at La Perle, the neighborhood's premier nightlife spot.
Where to Stay in Le Marais
Le Marais Paris has something for everyone, from foodies to art fans, but what about its accommodation options? If you want to really uncover everything the area has to unfold, staying locally is essential, and thankfully there's no shortage of options. If you want to be right at the heart of the action, the Hotel Dupond Smith near Saint-Paul can't be better. The Villa Beaumarchais over by Place Vosges is a nice out-of-the-way alternative away from the crowds, while the Snob Hotel by Elegancia is conveniently situated for the Pompidou. But there are excellent accommodation options spread across Le Marais. Explore, compare, and pick one that meets all of your requirements. Whatever you choose, you'll find yourself in an enchanting part of the City of Light.
