Surf in Munich – Our Guide to the Capital of River Surfing

“Surf”. “Munich”. The two concepts would seem to fit together as well as, say,  “Holland” and “mountain climbing”, “Egypt” and “skiing”, or “Rome” and “peace and quiet”. Yet even though it's located hundreds of kilometres, and separated by the Alps, from the nearest sea, the landlocked Bavarian capital has become a magnet for accomplished surfers from all over the world. They come looking to take on one of the world's most challenging river waves, and locals have long stopped batting an eyelid at the sight of surfers lugging their boards through the medieval city centre.

The manmade Eisbach – literally "ice stream" – emerges from the underground to flow a couple of kilometres through the vast city park, the Englischer Garten, before emptying into the Isar river. The stationary Eisbach Wave (Eisbachwelle) is below Prinzregentenstrasse just a few steps from the Haus der Kunst contemporary art museum, and the bridge over the stream offers a perfect vantage point for spectators watching the wetsuit-clad surfers ride the demanding standing break. You're likely to catch riders challenging the wave almost any time of the day or night, summer and winter, and the wave's central location means a spot of surf-watching is a fun break from sightseeing, whether your stay in Munich is all about admiring magnificent works in peerless art museums, wandering the old town's atmospheric streets or just kicking back in a shady beer garden. While you're at the wave, make sure you explore the Englischer Garten, from the Chinese pagoda and the hilltop Monopteros temple with breathtaking views to the endless meadows beloved of sun-worshippers.

Good to know:

• The Eisbach Wave is right at the tram (line 16) and bus (line 100) stop Nationalmuseum/Haus der Kunst. It's about 8 minutes' walk from Lehel U-Bahn station (U4, U5) or 10 minutes from Odeonsplatz (U3, U4, U5, U6).
• The bridge and the river banks can get very crowded on sunny days.
• The quaint Fräulein Grüneis kiosk (in a converted public toilet) near the wave serves yummy sandwiches, soups, cakes and more to still your appetite while you're surf-watching.

The wave originally appeared literally overnight when the city authorities submerged several concrete blocks under the bridge to slow the strong current of the Eisbach. Almost immediately, in 1972 to be precise, the first hardy trailblazers donned their wetsuits and began riding the resulting wave. Back then, though, the wave was inconsistent and subject to change with the weather, so the resourceful surfers did some renovations of their own, adding a few wooden planks to improve the wave's reliability and ride-ability. The construction work paid off, and the Eisbach Wave provided year-round – if illegal – wave-riding opportunities; surfing on the Eisbach was only legalised in 2010. Today, Munich is home to a thriving surf subculture that's probably unique in a landlocked city.

Thinking of taking on the Eisbachwelle yourself? Be aware that the world's most famous river wave is suitable for advanced surfers only! It's no coincidence that pros like Jack Johnson, Robby Naish and Garrett McNamara have been spotted hitting the surf in Munich. Although the wave is usually only around a metre high, the flow of the Eisbach stream is extremely fast and powerful. The water temperature seldom goes much above 15° Celsius (59°F) and drops to single digits in winter. Large concrete objects below the surface of the shallow stream mean a wipeout can result in serious injury, so a helmet is recommended. The first hurdle is getting into the river – riders jump directly from the shore and onto their boards right on the wave.

If you do decide you're up to the challenge, shorter boards are most suitable – a specialist river surfing board is best. And remember to respect Munich surf etiquette: 

• Riders join the line on either side of the stream and wait their turn, hitting the water from alternating banks.
• Only one person can ride at a time – the Eisbachwelle isn't a party wave.
• Even if you do master the wave, don't ride for too long. The normal ride time is around 20 to 40 seconds.
• For safety's sake, a flat dive into the water is the best exit when finishing your ride.
• And, yes, there is some localism on the Eisbach Wave.

Note also that – even though you may see people in the water on hot days – swimming in the Eisbach is dangerous and prohibited. The stream is also dried out for a cleanup for a couple of weeks in autumn.

Even if the Eisbachwelle is a little (or a lot) beyond your boarding skills, there are still a few other surf spots in Munich where you can try your hand at riding the river waves.

• The E2 Wave, also known as the little Eisbach Wave, is a few hundred metres downstream from its wilder big sister, in the Englischer Garten. While still demanding, the wave here is not as steep and powerful, making it a mellower ride for intermediate river surfers. Getting into the water is a challenge here too – watch the locals for guidance. Like the Eisbachwelle, you can surf here all year round, but there are usually fewer spectators if you do suffer an embarrassing wipeout.
• The Floßlände Wave is located on the Ländkanal in the Flaucher flood plain area along the Isar river. Reputedly the spot where river surfing was invented around 50 years ago, it's a gentler break, and you're likely to encounter a friendly community of experienced locals alongside beginners and intermediates. The surf season runs from May to September, and as the canal's water flow is regulated, surfing is only possible at certain times. You can find out more at the website of the Munich surf club, the IGSM.

• Once home to several surf spots, the Isar now only presents surfable waves during flooding, thanks to the renaturation of the river bed. Popular breaks are between the two bridges Wittelsbacherbrücke and Brudermühlbrücke. Because of the dangers of floating objects and poor water quality when the river is in flood, they're only suitable for experienced riders who know the river well – but they offer great entertainment for spectators!
• Like to hone your skills in a controlled environment before you hit the wild waves? The Jochen Schweizer Arena has an indoor wave where you can practise or take lessons in a safe – and warm – setting. The wave is adjusted to suit levels from beginner to pro throughout the week – check the timetable online.

Now all that's left for you to do is grab your surfboard and your wetsuit and hit the wild waves of Munich!