7 December 2024
5 minutes
There is no dish more synonymous with Viennese cuisine than the Wiener Schnitzel. But what makes a great one? And where can you eat the best Wiener Schnitzel in Vienna?
7 December 2024
5 minutes
A true Wiener Schnitzel (literally “Viennese schnitzel”) is a wafer-thin slice of meat, covered in breadcrumbs and quickly fried to crisp, golden-brown perfection. Austrian law decrees that a genuine Wiener Schnitzel must be veal, and that alternatives must be labelled as such – lots of (great) schnitzel-chefs use pork: Wiener Schnitzel “vom Schwein”.
The meat is first salted then gently pounded, enough to make it thin but not enough to destroy the cell structure. It’s dusted in flour, doused in beaten eggs and covered in breadcrumbs, then quickly fried in oil or clarified butter – enough that the schnitzel “swims” in it – for around two minutes at a high temperature; the breading must be crispy, not soggy or oily. And what distinguishes a great schnitzel from a good one? All chefs have their secrets, but most swear that, as well as the quality of the meat, the breadcrumbs are crucial – many insist on rolled Viennese “Kaiser” bread rolls – and that butter lends the best flavour. What’s beyond dispute is that a schnitzel must be fresh – straight from the pan to your plate! Traditional accompaniment is a slice of lemon and a Viennese potato salad with vinegar, but you can also order it with parsley potatoes or fries.
The most popular theory holds that the Habsburg Austrian field marshal Radetzky (he of Johann Strauss Sr.’s “Radetzky March”) was served a veal cutlet fried in breadcrumbs while in Italy in the mid-19th century and, back in Vienna, ordered his cooks to whip up a similar dish. What he probably savoured was cotoletta alla milanese, though that still has the bone in it. Other theories speculate that crumbed slices of meat were gracing Austrian plates much earlier. Whatever’s true, there’s no doubt that the city and what the locals lovingly call their Breslteppich (literally “breadcrumb carpet”) are inseparable.
You’ll find quite a few variations to the standard recipe on the menus of typically Viennese restaurants. Here are a few:
Sampling a true Wiener Schnitzel is certainly one of the essential things to do in Vienna. Here are a few of our favourite spots, in no particular order...
Certainly the most iconic and just maybe the best schnitzel in Vienna, this quaint inn in a passageway in the 1st District has been dishing up their wafer-thin cuts – by default, pork – since 1905. The schnitzels are famously bigger than the plates! And they’ve recently added a yummy vegan alternative, made from sunflower seeds, oats and peas, to their menu. Yes, you will meet lots of tourists, but Figlmüller is just as beloved by locals; they also have a second locale around the corner.
Our tip: The enterprising Figlmüller brothers have recently taken over a former Würstelstand (sausage stand) nearby where they serve absolutely mouthwatering burgers with either schnitzel or Tafelspitz (boiled beef). (Brioche und Brösel: Rotenturmstrasse 21, 1010 Vienna)
This buzzing, no-frills tavern – think wood panelling and bar stools in the shape of men’s lower halves in Lederhosen – has been serving its giant pork schnitzels and an array of variations for around 50 years. Great if you’re on a limited budget and still want to sample some of the best schnitzels in Vienna.
A delightful Beisl – the general term for a low-key, wood-panelled neighbourhood tavern – Oswald & Kalb serves delectable veal schnitzels coated with Kaiser roll breadcrumbs. This foodie favourite also has inventive vegetarian dishes, a great Austrian wine list and a focus on regional, seasonal produce.
The Plachutta family’s other restaurants are revered for their succulent Tafelspitz, but at their cosy yet stylish location near the opera house, they’ve devoted themselves to their interpretation of the best schnitzel in Vienna. The veal cuts are subtly seasoned, golden brown and delightfully crispy.
One of Vienna’s oldest taverns – Franz Schubert was a regular patron – the 3 Hacken serves succulent veal schnitzels fried in clarified butter, along with a host of other Viennese classics, in a timeless, cosy interior with vaulted ceilings and dark timbers.
A 1903 art nouveau jewel that’s long been a beloved bohemian haunt, the Rüdigerhof serves a deliciously golden brown Wiener Schnitzel, along with a menu of Viennese classics. We also love their brunch, and the shady garden is a summer hotspot.
Like to combine your schnitzel-tasting with a visit to a traditional Viennese Kaffeehaus? Great if you’re peckish after exploring Schönbrunn Palace, at the 1832 Dommayer you can savour a deliciously crispy schnitzel served by waistcoat-clad waiters under chandeliers, as well as a tempting assortment of cakes. Oh, and Johann Strauss father and son both held regular concerts here.
A bohemian meeting place since the mid-1800s, the GmoaKeller serves Viennese cuisine with a modern gourmet twist, including delectable veal and pork schnitzel, as well as a melt-in-your-mouth cordon bleu. Things get busy after shows at the nearby Konzerthaus and Akademietheater. The boutique, 4-star Hotel Am Konzerthaus Vienna MGallery is just a few steps away.
An insider tip that we’re almost reluctant to share, the Altes Fassl serves deliciously tender schnitzels, both veal and pork, alongside creatively interpreted Viennese standards. The interior has a delightful patina, and the courtyard garden is a summer oasis.
A laid-back bohemian institution, the Anzengruber’s huge, delicious pork schnitzel is just as legendary as its goulash and its beer.
Our tip: Look for the painting with legends of the Viennese music scene.
During your stay in Vienna, you may well find the best schnitzel at the neighbourhood Beisl around the corner. Wherever you tuck into the city’s signature dish, we wish you “guten Appetit und Mahlzeit”!
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